Gypsy & The Navigator

Johnson Canyon to Skutumpah Road to Cottonwood Canyon Road

Taking the Backroads Instead of the Highways.

We have wanted to take this back road trip for several weeks.

The roads are very primitive in spots and warnings abound everywhere to not travel them when there has been recent rain or the prediction of rain.

Every time that we have had open days to go it has either just rained or rain is on its way.

Finally consecutive dry days and no rain predicted.

The Rainbow Point section of Bryce Canyon National Park makes a nice backdrop for much of the trip on Skutumpah Road. 

There are working ranches and Dude Ranches along the way.  There is even a dirt runway airport near the Dude Ranch for tourists to fly in.

The day was perfect for driving with the windows down and everywhere we looked the scenery was beautiful.

The road has narrowed but it is still in decent shape with no problems.

There were frequent interesting sights.  Like these roots that have climbed down the rock searching for that illusive soil.

 

 

 

There were many fascinating rock formations like this arch that looks like it was made out of stacked rock.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The road goes down a steep slope and all of a sudden we were at Bull Valley Gorge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bull Valley Gorge is a 100 foot deep slot canyon that I understand is difficult to hike.  It is dark and narrow, filled with mud, pools of water and huge boulders.  We didn't know until we were back that the bridge that goes over the canyon is actually built upon a wrecked 1950's pickup. The accident took the lives of 3 men. Their bodies were recovered but the truck was left in place, and the bridge that exists today was made by pushing large rocks and tree trunks over the wreck, forming a sturdy barrier about 15 feet thick.  They say you can see it by walking a ways down the road.  Wish we would have known.  It would have been fun to see a bridge built on a wreck. 

I have a slot canyon hike in mind today but this is not it.  Too scary for me.

Doesn't that cloud look like it is full of rain?  Oh no, we are not even halfway on this trip.

And there is water running across the road.

But soon the clouds were again white and puffy and the road was dry.

  

 

Lots of cattle grazing on the lush grasses.  I think if Walt would have opened the door this one would have climbed into the car. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Down into the valley near Cannonville.

The terrain here is very dramatic and quite a change.

 

 

 

Since it is only a few miles to Tropic Walt was hoping for Fish and Chips at Clarke's.  Needless to say he got his wish.

 

 

 

After lunch we headed on to Cottonwood Canyon Road.

This road is the most washboardy we have ever driven on.  And very twisty and turny.  We drove so slow that it took hours to go the 46 miles.  We have had a definite backroad experience.

Going slow gave us time to really enjoy the views.

About 9 miles down the road we came to the turnoff for Grosvenor Arch.

Grosvenor Arch is a unique double arch that stands 152 feet high and spans 92 feet. 

There were very few people there so we spent quite awhile enjoying this spectacular work of nature.

Despite the difficulty of the road this is an incredible sight and a shame that more people don't get to see it. 

And arches that you can walk right under are the best.

 Then on to my number one on the days wish list.  The internet said that this was the rock formation we should look for.

Just across the road is the entrance to the Cottonwood Wash Narrow slot canyon.

Since the climb down was pretty steep Walt elected not to go.

From the description on the internet I knew I wouldn't get lost and the thought of a slot canyon with no one there but me was something I knew I would love.

And I was not disappointed.

So quiet, still and gorgeous.

The only sound was an occasional bird call.

What a special experience.  Mark that off my wish list.  A smile all afternoon.

Continuing on we saw this unusual rock.  It was like it had been sliced with a knife and there was no other rock that purply color anywhere around.  We are continually amazed at Mother Nature.

Soon we were following the Paria River.

 It was evident why this is called Cottonwood Canyon.  Cottonwood trees lined the river banks.

The road was originally built as a maintenance road for power lines following the canyon.  Frequently there were huge power lines on both sides of the road and others branching off and going different directions. 

The last part of the road is pretty barren and still as washboardy as ever. We said that if we had started from the other direction we may not have continued on to the beauty beyond.  Oh, what we would have missed. 

"Take the back roads instead of the highways."

Minnie Pearl

Western Legends Round-up

An August Event in Kanab.

Each August Kanab hosts the Western Legends Round-up.

They bring back some of the stars that were in the Movies filmed in Kanab.

Old time stars perfom.  This year the headliners were Lynn Anderson and The Sons of the Pioneers.

The streets are filled with Western Demonstrations, Texas Longhorns, activities, horses, mules, cowboy poetry and of course Dutch Oven Dinners.

We were camp hosting during the event so were not able to see a lot of the offerings but we were able to watch the Wagon Train as it came through.

 

Anyone can participate in the Wagon Train that starts in Alton, UT ( 35 miles North of Kanab) and for 4 days and 3 nights trek through the country where many of the movies were made.  For a fee of course, $900.

Everyone  appeared to be having a very good time. I'll bet those original pioneers would have liked a McDonald's to stop at for a snack.

One evening we did have others cover for us and we took a stroll.

Our destination was to hear the Highway 89 Band play.  My Jr. High classmate (the one in the ball cap) plays in the band.  

The music was good and there was quite a bit of dancing going on.  I only had my phone for photos so they aren't very good but you get the idea. 

The feedback from those who came to the Round-up is that it was the best year ever.  Good job Kanab.
 

Morning's Sunrise After the Softness of Dawn

Wishes Do Come True!  A Sunrise at The Grand Canyon.

We got up at 5 a.m. to go to the Terrace to see the sunrise.

This time there were only about a dozen people there.

The sky continued to lighten with a touch of pink.

The cliffs started to glow with a touch of the sun.

It was a soft warm peaceful glow.

Unlike the fire of the sunset this was a slow, warm light.

It illuminated more and more of the canyon.

 

The light increased and warmed those of us watching.

The light started to shine brighter and brighter.

There was a golden glow.

Soon the day had arrived and we headed back to the room for a couple more hours sleep.

 After our refreshing naps, showers and breakfast we slowly made our way back to Kanab.  The day was rain and mist free.  Bright blue sky and puffy white clouds.

The road sides were lined with wildflowers.

 

 

 

We tried to find Jacob Lake.  It is no longer a lake. Apparently it was really only a pond. We were told that they tried to expand the pond and in doing so it totally disappeared.   It is now a horse pasture across from the historic Ranger Station.  The Ranger Station was an important major contact point for visitors to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon and the Kaibab National Forest.  It was built in 1910 and used until the new Visitor Center was opened.

After a late lunch and cookie at Jacob Lake Inn we continued on.

 

 

  

As you drop down from the Kaibab Plateau off in the distance you have a view of the Vermillion Cliffs with the White Cliffs behind.     It looks like a water color painting.

“It is a pity indeed to travel and not get this essential sense of landscape values. You do not need a sixth sense for it. It is there if you just close your eyes and breathe softly through your nose; you will hear the whispered message, for all landscapes ask the same question in the same whisper. 'I am watching you -- are you watching yourself in me?' Most travelers hurry too much...the great thing is to try and travel with the eyes of the spirit wide open, and not too much factual information. To tune in, without reverence, idly -- but with real inward attention. It is to be had for the feeling...you can extract the essence of a place once you know how. If you just get as still as a needle, you'll be there.” 
― Lawrence Durrell, Spirit Of Place: Letters And Essays On Travel

Every now and then I know what he means.  Still as a needle, savor, breathe softly.  I felt that way watching the sunrise. I wanted that stillness and quiet. 

Just Enough Clouds Create a Beautiful Sunset

Wishes Do Come True...........................A Sunset Sky at Grand Canyon.

Both the East and West Terraces at the North Rim Grand Canyon Lodge were full of people.

The wine was flowing and glasses tinkled as toasts were made to being in such a beautiful place.

The dying sun glinted off the cliffs.

The canyon depths became brilliant shades of blue. 

These cliffs looked like they were made of solid gold. 

Lemon sky, pink and purple clouds..................many oohs and aahs from the people on the Terrace.

The western sky looked like it was on fire.  

The canyon retreated into deep shadow.

It was a rich and gorgeous sunset.  The shifting clouds worked their magic.  I am so grateful to have had my wish granted. 

 

 

It wasn't over yet.  This was the view from our table at the Lodge Restaurant for a most enjoyable dinner.  Rib Eye Steak for Walt and Crab Cakes for me. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Off to bed to rise early in hopes of a sunrise spectacle. 

 

 

Good Night World.

North Rim of The Grand Canyon....................Windows of Opportunity

May your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view. May your mountains rise into and above the clouds. ~Edward Abbey

We have had reservations at the Grand Canyon Lodge on the North Rim for months.  The morning it was time to go we woke up to puddles and rain showers off and on.  I had wanted to see a sunset and sunrise at the Canyon so staying overnight there could make that happen.  Was Mother Nature going to spoil my wish? 

We put our suitcases in the car and headed out.

I knew those clouds could lead to something spectacular.

As we climbed higher and higher into the fir and spruce forest everything was damp and misty.

Then RAIN.  Optomistically we travel on.  It will work out.

Our first glimpse of the canyon.  A gentleman sitting on a bench and leaning on his cane said  "We drove all this way and can't see it".   

We contined on along the trail and THERE IT IS.

So lush and beautiful enclosed by the clouds.

Changing by the minute by the movement of the clouds.  I told Walt that I hoped the gentleman had continued down the trail.

"There he is" said Walt.  Hooray.  He came all that way and got to see the Grand Canyon.

Everchanging.  What the clouds loved to cover the wind loved to uncover.

I was enchanted.  It was too beautiful to be real.

I couldn't stop staring and taking pictures.

It started to rain again and was pretty cool so we headed for the car and had our picnic lunch in the car. 

We checked into our room.  Shower no larger than in Gypsy but like the real estate mantra "Location, Location, Location".

The rain didn't last long where we were so we headed out to Cape Royal and Point Imperial.  The plants are encroaching on the road.  So much more full than when we were there in June. 

When we got to Cape Royal the fog had enfolded the canyon.  It felt like Ichabod Crane's world. 

 

Easy to be frightened by ghosts or demons in this misty world.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

That headless horseman could pop out at any minute.

 

 

 

 

The clouds parted only long enough for this tiny glimpse of any sight from Cape Royal.   

 

 

 

Not a peek of Angels Window.  But the stark contrast of the snags against the gray of the fog kept me snapping away.

 

 

 

We continued toward Point Imperial.   So soft and misty in the distance.

Stops at viewpoints revealed stunning canyon vistas through the clouds.

And clear down at the river it was cloud free and the river was running brown.

Here the clouds were rising out of the canyon.  The movement of the wind currents batted the clouds around like someone was playing a game.

 All of this rain had made everything so green.  Look at the plateau on the South Rim, green,  glorious green. 

At Vista Encantada it was bright and sunshiny with white puffy clouds.

 

A cloud here and there did get left behind.

Point Imperial is the highest point and there were still some clouds below the rim.  

It was so nice up there.  We spent time enjoying the sights and the sun.

The shadows grew long.  It was time to head back to the Lodge in hopes there would be a sunset display from the terrace and we had dinner reservations later as well.

Stayed tuned to see if Mother Nature gave me a sunset.

"Even the most beautiful days eventually have their sunsets."

– Unknown Author

 

 

Kaibab Paiute Tribe Sounds of Thunder Mountain Powwow

Native American Dancing and Drumming.........

We had heard about the Southern Paiute Tribe hosting a Powwow just beyond the Pipe Spring National Monument on their reservation near Moccasin and luckily it was on a day that we were not hosting so we could attend.

There were dancers there from other states such as New Mexico and Oklahoma as well as the local tribes competing for prize money.

The colorful regalia were stunning.

This is called a jingle dress.  The little metal cones on the skirt make a jingling sound as the dancer moves.

This dancer also carried a scarf and pouch.  I wish I knew the meaning of the different regalia and dances we saw. 

I did learn that the clothing that they wear is not referred to as a costume but as regalia.

The movement of the fringe while they danced was so graceful.

Isn't she beautiful?  I took many photos of her.  She looked so pretty and danced so gracefully.

I knew there was a protocol for photographs but had no idea what it was.  So I took my cue from what others were doing.  It appeared that the etiquette for the day was to just not be intrusive. People stayed in their seats and just quietly snapped so I did the same. I wish we would have been there earlier to see the childrens dances.  It makes me happy that they are carrying on the traditions of their ancestors.

They have a category "Golden Pass" and I must say they were every bit as energetic as the young ones.

 

The drumming and singing is the basis for the dancing. 

"Good drums get the dancers out there, good songs get them to dance well. Without drum groups there is no music. No music, no dance, no powwow." Chris Roberts Powow Country.

This dancer was very athletic and energetic performing some tricks with the wands in his hands.

The Native American bustle is a traditional part of a man's regalia usually made from eagle feathers. The bead work was so intricate with pretty patterns.

These boys were hoping to be the lucky winners of the BMX bike in the raffle. 

No real horses at this Powwow but family fun with broom horses races.

The kids really had fun with this and other activities they had for them.

This little girl made friends with us and had fun seeing her picture in my camera.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What a great way to spend an afternoon.  I really enjoyed it  and our taste buds were delighted as well.

 

 

Fry Bread what a treat!

 

 

 

 

 

We now know a Powwow is an event for Native Americans to meet, dance, sing,  socialize and honor their culture.  I feel priviledged to have been able to be able to have been at the event. 

 

 We drove through the area before we headed home and found these two great old rock houses.  They seem to stand forever.  We should still be building out of rock. 

"A hungry stomach makes a short prayer." - Paiute

 

Not Every Rainy Day Promises a Rainbow

Sometimes a Flash of Lightning is Just as Beautiful.

My goal to actually capture lightning on a photo I have taken is still on my bucket list.  Neither my fingers or my camera are fast enough to get the image. But, that won't keep me from trying.

No huge adventures this week but enough to keep us busy.  We went to lunch one day at Jake's Chapparal in Kanab and we were surprised to see Frog Eye Salad on the Salad Bar.  Plus pine nuts to go as topping on the green salad were there too.  Everything was fresh and delicious. 

We needed to have some warranty work done on Gypsy before we passed the one year mark so we hitched up Gypsy and went to St. George.   The day was cloudy on our drive over but there was no rain.

Our original plan was to overnight in Walmart or perhaps Cracker Barrel but it was pretty warm so we thought air conditioning would be good and Walt wanted the internet to watch the Diamondbacks game so we checked in at the St. George RV Park. Then come to find out the Diamondbacks game was audio only that day. 

 

  

It is a nice park. The camp host was a little strange but aren't we all?                                          

 

Walt enjoyed the huge hot shower and look at the size of the patio.  I would really like that for a long term stay.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                                                          We had the warranty work done at Vacation World RV in St. George.  They were so nice and the work was done efficiently and in the time frame promised.  Our experience would be to recommend them for any work on an RV needed in the St. George area.

 We spent the day running errands and had lunch at Cafe Rio.  Our cupboards and freezer are full for the time being so we are well stocked. 

By the time we headed back to Kanab the rain was starting.

There was lightning out toward the Grand Canyon.  Unhappily I wasn't able to capture it but the sky was putting on quite a show in addition to the lightning. 

On some of our rainy days I sat through a marathon of watching House of Cards.  Any of you watch the whole series?  A camper that came through was talking about it and how worried she was that if only 10% of it could be true what a horrible state our nation would be in.  After watching it my hope is that our politicians are only inept and greedy not genuinely evil through and through. If scenarios like those in the program drive our politics it certainly showcases peoples desire for power.  I think the only reason I would watch the upcoming season is if they can guarantee Frank Underwood will fall as far as possible.  Too much of a downer, I am going to do a marathon Miss Marple day to offset!  Murder yes, but manners and brains galore. 

 The sky was the show right up until dark.  

"You must not blame me if I do talk to the clouds." ~Henry David Thoreau

 

 

On The Road Again!

Not Ready for Hiking but a Road Trip Sounds Great.

Between me being a total grump, the rain falling for hours and the internet down so he couldn't even watch his ball games on Apple TV Walt was ready for a day out.

I was feeling better.  I had had almost a full nights sleep on our comfy bed so we headed east to Page.

It was a bright day with a clear blue sky.  But the closer we got to Page puffy white clouds appeared.

After having Green Chile Cheeseburgers at R D's Drive In we drove out to Antelope Point Marina. By water it isn't too far from Wahweap Marina which is where we usually go but by road it is about 19 miles.  

The lake is narrower here than at Wahweap so the sandstone walls are pretty close.

From there you have a perfect view of Tower Butte.  You can take a helicopter tour that actually lands on the top of Tower Butte and you can get out and take pictures from that incredible view point.  Not sure if  I want to pay $245.00 to scare myself to death.  

The water glittered in the hot sun.  Amazing how it can pour buckets one day and be hot the next. That is the desert, she is stingy with her water and hides it well. 

In the area is the Navajo Generating Plant.  It is a coal fired power plant that has been the center of controversy in regards to pollution concerns. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency has put together a plan that will close one of the generators by 2019 and full closure of the plant would be by 2044.  I am sure that there will be much debate and protests due to the economic impact to the Navajo Nation and Northern Arizona in general. 

 As we drove by this we couldn't help turning in.  Pens full of Brahman Bulls. Cowboys working around.  Checked later and they supply bulls to rodeos.  

Page is surrounded by wonderful sandstone formations. 

We went to Wahweap Marina to confirm that the water level was up.  We were sure it was.

 

 

 

 

 

This picture was taken June 2, 2014.

 

 

 

 

And this was taken August 4, 2014.  Not a huge amount but the water level is definitely higher. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It is more noticeable at the dam that there is a water level difference.  This photo was taken June 2, 2014.

 

 

 

 

 

This was taken August 4, 2014.   Every little bit helps.

 

 

 

 

   

This sight always takes my breath away.  We plan on taking Gypsy to Page for a few days probably in September so we can take the Rainbow Bridge Boat Tour, do the Antelope Canyon tour and maybe a Dinner Cruise.  We stopped in the Resort to get the tour information and there is so much to do it is hard to decide.  Can't do it all.

A nice leisurely drive back to Kanab.  Happy to be more mobile and out seeing more of the wonderland out there. 

“Don't grumble! Don't stew! 
Some critters are much-much,
Oh, ever so much-much
So muchly much-much more unlucky than you!” 
― Dr. Seuss

“I'm sorry to say so but, sadly it's true that bang-ups and hang-ups can happen to you” - Dr. Seuss

Feeling Some Pain............

My hip and knee have been hurting so bad that it has greatly reduced my mobility and caused many a sleepless night.

 

Walt has been very helpful and sympathetic but my guess is he is secretly saying " hip, hip, hooray.... no hikes, just road trips". 

Life goes on and there were errands to do.  Being in a small town makes it difficult to find things you need or want so it was time to head to St. George.   I was well armed with Extra Strength Tylenol.  In the past few days I have tried several pain relievers and Extra Strength Tylenol is the one that works the best.  Still, I wish it worked better!

First stop was Walmart to pick up Walt's prescriptions.  Works good for travelers.  Walmart is pretty much everywhere and makes it easy to get prescription refills once you are in their system.  Picked up more Extra Strength Tylenol and some Tums.  Always like to have those on hand.

 

At Camping World we got a new fan for those hot days we have been having.  Nice to have air movement in Gypsy.   We also checked out the Memory Foam Mattress Toppers.  Walt said he could feel the board through our mattress in Gypsy and we were told that a topper would help. That sounded more economical than buying a new mattress.  They had a 2 inch topper but we thought we might like something thicker.

 

 

 

Cleaning supplies at Target and a check of the Mattress Toppers.  Theirs were no thicker and cost more than Camping World.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next to Target is a Dollar Tree.  Best place for Crest Toothpaste.  Only a dollar........at least $2 anywhere else.  And garbage bags.  They have the right size for the little garbage can in Gypsy.

 

 

  

Time for a late lunch.  It will serve as dinner as well.  Walt had seen an ad on TV for crab topped salmon so Red Lobster was our choice.           

 

 

 

 Crispy green salads and clam chowder.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Basket of garlic cheddar biscuits.

 

 

 

Walt's crab topped salmon.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And my grilled shrimp.   It was all good and very much enjoyed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

A successful stop at Costco.  They had a mattrees topper 1 inch thicker for only a few dollars more than Camping World.   We stocked up on salmon, talapia and flavored water. 

 

 

My HIGHLIGHT is a stop at Sonic for a Dirty Diet Coke.

 

 

 

 

 

A stop in Hurricane to do laundry.  Much cleaner than Kanab and the machines all work.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 As we headed home through Zion our phones went off with emergency alerts.   Flash flood warnings in Zion.

There was water in the normally dry creek beds that run along the road.  

The canyons darkened under the cloudy skies but there was still some bright blue out there.

 

 

 

When we got to Mt. Carmel Junction the sky had cleared.   There has been a great deal of construction on the roads in Southern Utah. Looks like another job gone.  Flagmen, flagwomen no longer needed.  Just set up a portable stop light. 

 

 

 

 

The day ended with bright sunshine behind those clouds.  Errands done and purchases put away. The mattress topper really helps.  Walt slept better and I liked how it supported me.  I am confident that soon my sleepless nights will be a thing of the past.