Gypsy & The Navigator

What Is The Difference Between A Key And An Island?

Another of the "to do's" in South Florida is a trip to "The Keys." 

First off I was happy to find out what the difference between a key and an island is.

Islands are either formed by volcanic action, or are part of a continental plate floating on top of the Earth’s mantle.  Hawaii, Japan, and the Philippines are examples of volcanically–formed islands.  Greenland and Australia are both continental islands.

Keys are sandy, low-elevation islands that form on top of coral reefs.  

The Florida Keys are a string of tropical islands that stretch about 120 miles off the state’s southern tip, between the Atlantic Ocean and Gulf of Mexico.

They begin at the southeastern coast of the Florida peninsula about 5 miles south of Florida City where we were staying and extend in a gentle curve south-southwest and then westward to Key West, the westernmost of the inhabited islands.

This trip was an eye opener for me.  Talk about misconception.  The only thing I had correct was the absolutely exquisite color of the water. 

I imagined going from tropical island to tropical island on pretty bridges with sandy white beaches lining the road in between bridges. 

What I got was hotels, resorts, restaurants, repetitive T-shirt shops, and too many people speaking languages I cannot understand. 

People queuing up to visit the Ernest Hemingway House.  This is before tickets are even purchased. I would have loved visiting to see the descendants of his six and seven toed cats but just not willing to mill through the crowds.  

Key West does have some public beaches but if you want a little privacy you probably need to check into one of the hotels that has beachfront property. 

It was so crowded in Key West that I didn't even ask Walt to find Jimmy Buffett's Margaritaville.  It would have been fun to see since I love his music and his books while not great literature are great fun. 

A giant statue depicting Renoir's Dancing in the City stands at the front of the Key West Art and History Museum.  There is much to see but we hoped to find something not too crowded and a little bit different.

Walt wanted to see Fort Zachary Taylor and we enjoyed our visit.

Fort Taylor is located near the southern tip of Key West.

This fort was an important defensive structure because of its command of the waters of the straits of Florida and the Gulf of Mexico. 

Construction on it began in 1845.  At the outset of theU.S. Civil War in 1861, Union Captain John Milton Brannan seized control of the fort, preventing it from falling into Confederate hands and using it as an outpost to threaten blockade runners. 

Fort Taylor continued to defend the United States during the Spanish-American War, World War I & World War II.  

No live shots were ever fired from this fort but Walt read that they used bags of flour for practice shots. While Fort Taylor never saw any hostile action, many historians have argued that because of Fort Taylor and its mission, the War of Rebellion was not allowed to continue any longer than it did.

This is where the soldiers ate. The rations during the civil war were pretty sparse.  Pretty much salt pork, salted beef and hardtack. A little bit of rice and beans.  

Sleeping accommodations looked pretty uncomfortable.  One across the back and two side by side.

Even though the fort construction started in 1845 it was not completed until 1866.  Yellow fever, shortages of material and men, remoteness, and hurricanes slowed down progress. 

The majority of artisans and mechanics that built the fort were immigrant Irish and Germans recruited by a New York agency fresh upon their arrival from Europe. The backbreaking labor, for the most part, was furnished by Key West slaves hired out under contract by their masters. I was very impressed by the brick work.  So many arches and curved walls. 

What an unexpected pleasure learning a bit of history on Key West. 

The return trip gave nice views of the old 7 mile bridge.  Parts of it are used as fishing piers, walking and cycling trails.  It was originally a railroad bridge of the “railroad that went to sea.”  It was converted to an automobile bridge and then abandoned when the new bridge was built in 1982.  

Despite what our expectations were we were glad we had a day in the keys.  I believe if you really want the keys experience you need to book a hotel or resort for several days to spend time on the beach, do the touristy stuff, and if you are adventurous snorkel and dive. 

"Begin doing what you want to do now.  We are not living in eternity. We have only this moment, sparkling like a star in our hand and melting like a snowflake."  Marie Beyon Ray







 

 

I Have REALLY Tried Walt's Patience

Gypsy is in her space at Southern Comfort RV Park in Florida City.  Getting her there was another story. I fully take responsibility for wanting to come to southern Florida.  The initial plan was to head straight east across the panhandle only going south a ways on the east coast to St. Augustine.  But, I kept thinking "we will be only a few hundred miles away..........we should see the Keys, Big Cypress, the Everglades".  Walt never says no so the plan was made to go south down the west coast and then north up the east coast.  It was difficult finding a place to stay in very south Florida.  Finally one of the places we had called in Homestead said "try Southern Comfort."  We did and were surprised that they said we didn't need a reservation............just come on down.  

We arrived in Florida City and found the park.  To start with I could tell Walt was a little disappointed. The park is old with RV's parked shoulder to shoulder and almost all are long term. Getting Gypsy parked in the spot they assigned us had several obstacles.  First...............this tree and her roots.

Then right across the very narrow road from the space is this post and the horseshoe pit.  To complicate matters he had 3 different people telling him how to get into the space. (Not me.......I stayed out of it) Two of the men were Cuban that worked for the park and only one spoke English.  The other was a fellow camper that came to help.  The problem was each one told Walt something different.  Credit Walt. He just put his head down, inched back and forth until he had Gypsy in.  He starts set up outside and I start inside.  It is bright and sunshiny but inside it sounds like a slow hail storm.  That tree in our spot is full of little dropping balls that cover everything underneath it.   Luckily every day the amount of balls dropping has reduced but Walt is concerned how to get them off the slide when we leave so we can get the slide in with no problem. 

Alas, that was not the end.  Just across the road beside the horseshoe pits is the Tiki Bar.  The live music started early and did not end until midnight.  We are not generally grouchy people and good music wouldn't have raised our desperation for it to end.  The later it gets the worse they are...........especially the man.  We did walk over early thinking "if you can't beat 'em join 'em" but it was crowded with lots of elbows bent partaking of various alcoholic beverages.  I think they needed it to endure that music.  To his credit Walt did not hook up Gypsy and we did get to experience the sights of southern Florida. 

Our first excursion was to Big Cypress National Preserve.  Alligators when you usually see them are very still so it lulls you into a sense that being that slow they can't possibly be dangerous.  That all changed for us in an instant. 

When an alligator sees a fish swim by it can move in a flash.  Walt actually got the action on his phone. It grabbed the fish, swallowed and was back to it's usual non-movement.  Learned my lesson.........stay back from an alligator. 

Remember how I said that Walt and I always pick up loose change and that I was too chicken to pick up a penny from the Governor's office in Tallahassee?  Believe me that pales in comparison to how chicken I was about picking up this quarter from the alligators head.  I wonder how long he had been laying there with that quarter on his head.  Must not have had a fish swim by. 

Before we did much more exploring we needed sustenance.  I had read about Joanie's Blue Crab Cafe on some of the blogs I read.  The building was originally a cattle barn and later became a bulk oil business. The restaurant opened in the building in 1987 serving the locals with local seafood.

The ambiance is fun and the food is good.  Walt had grouper and I had shrimp.  

Live music at lunch.  A little down home Florida.  

The abandoned filling station next door is said to be the first concrete block building in Collier County. Still looks like it has "clean restrooms." 

I had spoken to a lady from Germany while we were at Manatee Springs and she recommended doing the Loop Road in Big Cypress.  I am glad that I looked it up and got information because there are no signs that direct you to the route.  Walt said that there was a blurb about it in the visitor center and it shows as a dotted line on their map but that is about it.  The building above is Monroe Station.  It was built in 1928 as a service station to assist travelers coming to the Everglades back then. It later became a tavern and roadside inn.  It is the landmark that marks the start of the Loop Road.

 

The loop is 24 miles long and most of it is gravel or dirt.

The first part of the trip is beside a sea of sawgrass backed by a cypress strand.  Sawgrass is really not grass, it is sedge.  

Red-shouldered hawk is the most common hawk in the Preserve.  

Soon we are in the swamp. The cypress trees were logged prior to the 1950's when most of the marketable wood had been harvested.  Today many of these trees are second growth.  

This absolutely adorable critter is a Big Cypress Fox Squirrel. I found out it is a threatened species and that I am very lucky to have spotted one.  If only we would have had video of the maneuvers it took to get this photo.  

 There are gators in the grass and in the water here.  Just keep your eyes open.

The black buzzard or vulture is not an adorable critter.  So close to us made us wonder if he knew something we didn't.  We both felt well but you never know. 

Who would have thought that a swamp could be so pretty.  I must have taken a hundred photos.

My next find was a Florida softshell turtle.  I am sure that it was a female because she was about 20 or 22 inches long.  Males only reach about 14 inches.  Her shell is actually covered by skin.

This is probably a face only a mother could love but I found her quite enchanting.  

When I headed down a trail to search for tree snails I saw this anhinga spear a fish and then fly off.  I continued down the path for awhile but the swarms of mosquitoes made me wave the white flag. 

When I returned to the water the bird was back in the same place madly striking the fish against the log.

I was completely baffled.

The beating continued.  Then a young man from South America came up and explained what the bird was doing.  Because the fish was quite large for him he had to make sure the fish was dead so that he could turn it so that it would be straight to slide down his throat.  If it was alive and wiggling it could escape.  

Success! 

This is about all that is left of Pinecrest.  The story goes that Al Capone once had a home, hotel and brothel here.  Also, the fiddle player, Ervin Rouse, retired here after he had written the musical hit "The Orange Blossom Special."

I think Al Capone left in a hurry and left one of his cars behind. 

 It's a big world out there.  Thanks Walt for being patient and letting us explore another part of it. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A Day In Bonita Springs

Continuing south we spent 2 nights at Tice Mobile Home Court in Fort Myers.  That gave us time to spend a day in Bonita Springs.  

We went to Little Hickory Beach because I heard there were lots of shells there.  Lots of people too.

But, if you walk far enough the people thin out.

The birds like it better when there are less people too.

I sat down on a rock next to this snowy egret.  I was just relaxing but he was at work.

He works for his food.  The patience is amazing.  Still as can be and then all of a sudden the head goes down and the beak strikes and lunch is on.  

The white ibis did a group lunch. 

The water was a shimmery aqua and the shelling was good.  So good that I brought more than I should back to Gypsy.

 

From the beach we went to the Everglades Wonder Gardens.

The Wonder Gardens are an old fashioned roadside attraction.

It was started in 1936 by two brothers and remained in the family until 2013.

Then the grandson made the hard decision to close the park.

It was saved by a non-profit group that is working hard to bring it back to its former glory.  I love these non-glamourous parks that are a bit run down and imperfect.  You can tell this one is well loved. 

 There seems to be a core of volunteers that will make the effort to make it successful.  The woman at the ticket desk was very enthusiastic about a fund raiser they had the night before.

The park is a botanical jungle filled with native trees and plants with some specimens from around the world thrown in.

While it was nice for us that it was uncrowded my hope is that the crowds will come.

The park is not large but it is filled with so many plants.

There are orchids in pots and orchids in the trees.

Plants are not the only things to be found in the park.

It is home to rescued birds and reptiles. 

They have found their forever home.

The animals are quite random.

Several of the birds talk.

Quite a few colorful flamingos. 

This is a tegu lizard.  It is interesting that they have him here as a rescue.  The tegu lizard is considered an invasive lizard in Florida.  They are native to South America and probably due to pet owners releasing them and their quick reproduction they are now a threat to native animals.  They grow up to 4 feet long and prey on small animals and eggs.  We saw one crossing the road one day..........they look pretty scary.  I read that they have a hunt for them in hopes to eradicate them but they feel it is impossible.  What I find funny is pet stores still sell them as pets in Florida. 

They had several turtles in a pond.  I really like turtles and tortoises.  Maybe because they carry their houses on their backs and we have our house follow behind. 

Who'd a thunk alligators needed rescuing?

They were rescued from an alligator farm that sold them for food.

I think they were more rescued as an attraction since there are alligator farms all around the south and alligator is on many restaurant menus and it is sold in grocery stores for home menus as well.  

This one did not appear to be appreciative of being rescued.  Maybe just got up on the wrong side of the bed. 

What a nice day...........from the beach to flora and fauna. 

“In every walk with nature one receives far more than he seeks.” -- John Muir 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Manatee Springs State Park

From Keaton Beach we continued south to Manatee Springs State Park for a few days.

The springs in the park provide a haven for wintering manatees.

The turquoise colored springs are what is called a First Magnitude Spring meaning that they produce an average of 100 gallons of clear water daily.

The water is at a constant 72 degrees.

The spring water flows about a quarter mile to join the tannin-stained waters of the Suwannee River en route to the Gulf of Mexico.

The decaying vegetation and leaves changes the color from that pretty aquamarine to the brown color. The waterway at the top of the picture is the Suwannee River.

No matter what the color the water is sparkling clear. You can see right down to the bottom in any of the shallow water.

This photo was taken into the water.  Amazing reflection of the blue blue sky in the clear water. 

The waters are filled with plant life.  Manatees are vegetarians so they feed on these aquatic plants.

Trees near the springs are mainly cypress but there are also sweetgum, maple and ash.  There is evidence of spring already.

The waters are filled with fish and turtles. 

Certified and qualified cave divers are able to explore several miles of underground caverns which feed into the spring.  Rules state that they must keep 50 feet between themselves and the manatees.

Swimming is allowed and the rules about not harassing the manatees are clear. They are not to be touched and care is needed to make sure that a mother and her calves are not separated.  Unfortunately the rules are not always adhered to.   That brown shape in the middle of the picture is a manatee and this group was madly paddling trying to touch her.  She was pretty smart and quickly managed to evade them. 

Manatees seem docile and cannot tolerate cold.  That is why they come into the springs to winter.  They are sometimes called sea cows and I think that is due to their grazing for greens.

Manatees are huge.  They can weigh over 1000 lbs and can be 12 feet long. Manatees spend approximately 50% of the day sleeping submerged, surfacing for air regularly at intervals of less than 20 minutes. The remainder of the time is mostly spent grazing in shallow waters at depths of 3 to 6 feet. 

You can rent a kayak and paddle the waters. The manatees are curious and will follow the kayakers. 

Quiet and peaceful way to spend several days.  

Late afternoon was my favorite time at the springs.

There are trails in the woods for hiking.

Lots of epiphytes in these woods.

An epiphyte is a plant that grows on another plant or tree and uses it mostly for support. An epiphyte gets its moisture and nutrients from the air, rain, and debris from the supporting plant.

Seems like a mushroom should be an epiphyte but it is not. They are not plants but fungi which have no green tissues.

There are sinkholes here.  There are hundreds of sinkholes in Florida but the one I always think of is the one that swallowed the Corvettes. 

Always so fun to see other RV's in the parks we are staying in.  Can't help smiling at a smiley face and a turtle. 

While staying in Manatee Springs we took a day trip to Cedar Key.

First sighting of a banana plant in Florida.

The naturalist, John Muir walked 1,000 miles from Louisville, KY to Cedar Key in just two months in 1867. Muir contracted malaria while working in a sawmill in Cedar Key, and recovered in the house of the mill's superintendent. Muir recovered enough to sail from Cedar Key to Cuba in January 1868. 

While out on the town pier I watched a fisherman bring in a sting ray.  Two local gentlemen saw my reaction to the sting ray and regaled me with stories of the men they knew that had been killed by a sting ray or that had lost a foot due to a ray sting.  Suffice it to say...............I am going to be very careful while in the ocean.  They also told me that some dishonest restaurant owners remove the barb and sell the ray meat as scallops.  You never know what you will learn if you are willing to listen.   Do we believe everything we hear???

You can believe what you taste.  Tony's claims to have the BEST clam chowder.  They have something to base that on besides our taste buds.  

"On Saturday June 6, 2009 Tony’s Cedar Key Clam Chowder won the 28th Annual Great Chowder Cook-off and claimed the title, Clam Chowder World Champion. 

Back for another title hunt in New England, Tony’s took to the field again on June 5, 2010 and for the second consecutive year won the 29th Annual Great Chowder Cook-off claiming another Clam Chowder World Championship.

At stake on June 4, 2011 was a third title and a chance for the recipe to be retired into the Cook-Off Hall of Fame. Not even a Grand Champion Chowder from New Jersey could deny Tony’s from a third world championship. For the third year in a row Tony’s Cedar Key Clam Chowder captured the title and did so with impressive style in another landslide victory.

With Tony’s third title in three years and the recipe retired into the Great Chowder Cook-off Hall of Fame, the future is still bright for what many fans call the “King of Chowder”."

You can order it online too.  Just add heavy cream and half and half.  No wonder it is SO good.  If you are ever in Cedar Key don't miss Tony's.

We have really enjoyed staying in Florida State Parks.  They each have something that is special. Manatees are definitely special.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Capitol in Tallahassee, FL

Heading north and east we left Panama City.

The destination was Tallahassee.  

I wanted to see Florida's Capitol.

Florida is another state that has a Capitol Complex and the Old Capitol is used as a Museum.  The building above is the Senate Building with the matching House office building on the other side of the old Capitol with the 22 story new Capitol rising behind the old. 

I was most interested in the Old Capitol.  I was a little surprised at the red and white striped awnings.  I found out that they were used from the 1890s to the early 1920s. They were placed back on the building during the 1980s restoration that returned the structure to its historic 1902 appearance. 

The original building was completed in 1845 and first expanded in 1902.

The new Capitol was completed in 1977.

At that time a decision was made to tear the Old Capitol down.

It was saved through citizens’ action and was restored to its 1902 appearance.

This is the Supreme Court Chambers.  The furnishings are original and the room has been restored through the use of a 1911 photograph.  Notice the cloths on the chair backs.  Isn't that when men used pomades and ointments on their hair? 

This is the House of Representatives.  The Senate was just like it without the portrait of George Washington.  The wall was blank so I am not sure if it was supposed to have a matching one.

The members seats looked like really nice school desks. 

 They use the fleur de lis in Florida too.

The Governor's private office seemed quite small.   Isn't that telephone great? 

The carpet is reproduction but I thought it was really nice.  Walt and I always pick up loose change (competing who finds the most) but I was not brave enough to step past the rope barrier to get this penny. 

We wandered through the museum exhibits.  This Weeki Wachee Springs mermaids 1960's swim suit caught my eye.  I had the same swim suit in the 60's but mine was white.  I wish I would have planned time for a stop in Weeki Wachee Springs to see the underwater mermaid show.  It has been in business since 1947 and the production they are putting on now is The Little Mermaid.  Oh well, I have to realize that we can't see everything.

I am glad we took the jog in our journey to see the Old Florida Capitol.  Now it is time to head south. 

On our way out of Tallahassee I saw this note on a car.  Made me smile.  There are always more and more reasons to be happy we have been able to grow old. 

Our first stop heading south on the western coast was in Keaton Beach at Old Pavilion RV Park.   Gypsy again was right on the beach. 

Keaton Beach is very rustic.  

It is known as a great place for kayaking and birding.

I assume it is great for shelling too.  This is what I saw under the water just off the shore.  Just wait for low tide, bring your shovel and scoop them up.

Not sure who decorated the posts in the water but they were so fun to see. 

They each had their own personality.

And their own sentiment. 

Keaton Beach boasts good fishing. 

The RV Park is pretty much no frills but the website boasts about the sunsets.

I think they are right.  

So many colors in the sunset sky.   How blessed we are to get to see all this beauty. 

"Nature is painting for us, day after day, pictures of infinite beauty if only we have the eyes to see them."     -- John Ruskin

 

 

A Few Days In Panama City, FL

We drove about 60 miles from Niceville to St. Andrews State Park near Panama City, FL.  Gypsy backed up in our spot on the Grand Lagoon and we had our own tiny little beach.  

St. Andrews State Park has over a mile and a half of beach on the Gulf just around the point from where we were parked.  

We did have to share the yard with another resident.  He does love sitting in the sun and drying out his wings. 

He was there before us but seemed willing to share.  

To get to the beach you pass by the mossy woods.

And Gator Lake.  No luck seeing any gators.

Then there it is....................another beach.  Each one different in its own way.   

I can clearly see why they call this the Emerald Coast.

The water is so many colors but the green seems to stand out. 

More beauty here than in any emerald ring. 

There were very few people on the beach.  A few boaters were out on the water.

A kitesurfer kept us as avid observers for quite awhile.

He could maneuver back and forth at will jumping the waves and "getting air."

We told him we had enjoyed watching him and he told us how much fun it is.  We can't use age as an excuse for not trying it.  He was not a young man. 

 

On a day that was cold and windy we went into Panama City.  Again...............not what we remembered. The beach is lined with high rise hotels and condos.  No more just driving along the beach.  

Lots of things to do for tourists in the area.  This is the outside of the Ripley's Believe It Or Not.

Wish I would have gotten a better picture of this.  It is a perfectly depicted upside down building.  It is the WonderWorks entertainment center that focuses on science exhibits. 

The wind was really whipping up the surf. 

This little guy put his head into the wind and hunkered down.  Not sure why he wouldn't leave the parking lot for somewhere more sheltered.  Maybe waiting for a handout. 

The red flag was flying warning of dangerous surf.  It should have warned us of a dangerous movie. Since it was cold we thought a movie would be a nice way to stay warm.  I admit I chose the movie. Hail Caesar.....................the best I could say is George Clooney looked good.  Walt wouldn't say there was anything good. OK I guess we would have to admit we laughed once or twice.

There was no danger of the food not being good here.  More delicious seafood (and pepper slaw... yum) with lots to look at on the walls and ceiling.  Money, guns and surfboards.  Seems to cover anyones interests.

J Michael has owned and run the restaurant for 35 years. It has had 3 different locations as it has grown. A local woman recommended it to Walt..........it is where the locals go.  Good food and fun.

Stormy days do make for good sunsets.

We were fortunate that there was only the one cold day.  The sun and warmth returned and there was plenty of time to spend on another of the beaches at the park.

This beach is across from Shell Island.  It is an uninhabited barrier island that later on in the year they have shuttles going across so you can explore.  

It was virtually deserted and there were plenty of shells to find. 

The day was ending under a vanilla sky.  This is Walt's favorite way to enjoy the beach.  That is him comfortable in a chair looking out to sea.

Back to our own little beach where the sunset has turned the water into shades of pink and purple. 

"The cure for anything is salt water......sweat, tears or the sea."

Isak Dinesen

 

 

What A Difference 49 Years Can Make

We left Louisiana headed toward Florida.  A quick overnight in the Gulfport/Biloxi Mississippi area gave us another ocean view.

Nice white beaches with tufts of beach grass.

The gulls are thick on the beaches and used to being fed.  They almost dive bomb you looking for food.

Loved the signs in the area. They are designed to help tourists locate restaurants and attractions on the Coast.  I know they are a shrimp but I am happier thinking of them as crawfish.  

Gulfport and Biloxi were massively destroyed by Hurricane Katrina in 2005.  You would never know it now.  Lots of touristy places along the beach.

There are pretty houses large and small with lots of porch sitting.

Too bad it wasn't dinnertime when we passed this by.  Bet it was good! 

Not sure about the food here but isn't this the neatest building?  Looking out over the water the view must be wonderful. 

Our journey continued through Alabama.  Water water everywhere there too.

Mobile seemed like a bustling city.

I10 goes through the George Wallace Tunnel under the Mobile River.  Even though it is not quite 3/4 mile in length for some reason it seemed longer to me.  

Not long and we were in Florida.  Gypsy was happy in her spot in Rocky Bayou State Park near Niceville.

The park we were in is quite close to Fort Walton Beach.  We had lived in Fort Walton Beach in 1967.....49 years ago.  I was excited to see if we could find the place where we had lived.

The closest we could find was between here and the Motel next door.  Probably right in the parking lot. The place was old when we lived there so it definitely should have been torn down.   That was probably the only way to rid it of the roaches.

We might as well have been somewhere we had never been before.

NOTHING was the same.

There was not a building anywhere near these gorgeous white sands beaches.  The road went right along the beach and you could just pull off and walk to the beach.

Access to the beach now is pretty limited in the panhandle.  Luckily there are designated spots and State Parks.

All those buildings cannot change the white, powdered sugar sands.

And it can't change the amazing color changing water.

While we may lament all the changes it didn't stop us from enjoying that soft, soft sand.

Looking at all the touristy stuff was fun. 

Yes, the magic of the beach was still there.  Just different.

Even though we weren't able to recreate the past we had an enjoyable time learning about the present.

We took time to explore the park we were staying in.  This was our view across from Gypsy.  That is Rocky Bayou.

There are three nature trails to enjoy that wind through the trees and beside the ever present saw palmetto.

This is Puddin Head Stream.  I would love to know where it got its name. 

The turtles were basking in the sun.

These grey-green clusters on the forest floor are deer moss.  It is a very slow growing lichen and large mats may take decades to develop.  If the weather has been dry it feels brittle and crunchy but if there has been rain it is as soft as a cotton ball. 

Despite the abundance of saw palmetto when it is backlit by the sun it is really pretty. 

Having a nice time in the Florida woods and really liked the sign on one of the Nature Trails.  Glad we are here again even with all the changes. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The River Road And A Day In New Orleans

We had just gotten on the road for our day of exploring when I saw this sign.  Yes, even in Louisiana Hatch Chile is famous.

We drove the River Road from Baton Rogue to New Orleans. 

As soon as we got close to the Mississippi River the fog closed in. 

Everything was seen through a misty veil.

There are still fields of sugar cane harking back to when it was sugar cane that made the plantations along the river road their fortune. 

But, today along the River Road there is more of this.....................

than this!  While it would be beautiful to see plantation after plantation I had a hard time with it all.

Thinking that the opulence of the plantation owners lives were built upon this...........cabins full of slaves......made the whole drive a disappointment to me.

I appreciated the beauty of the architecture of the homes.

This made me sad.

I was impressed by the levee along the Mississippi.  And Walt kept wanting to drive up on it.  Whenever he would find a road leading up on it that didn't say "No Trespassing" (well, maybe not always) up we would go. What an enormous job it must have been building it.  Levee construction in Louisiana actually began with the first settlers in 1718.   Now the sides are lushly green and you can see crews mowing the grass to keep it pretty.

Several of the homes have been restored and are open for tours.

Walt wanted to know if I wanted to go on one of the tours.  I did not!  I didn't want to hear what their life had been like.  I didn't want to see their beautiful furnishings.  Funny thing is I love Downton Abbey and have often thought while watching it that I could have been happy being one of the servants there but I cannot imagine life as a slave. I am sure many were treated kindly but they were still slaves. OK enough about that.  The River Road just wasn't a happy place for me. 

We did find a wonderful old Catholic Cemetery.  Tumbling down tombs and monuments.  So beautiful even in disrepair. 

The River Road was a chaotic mixture of broad cane fields, mansions, run down houses, petrochemical plants and suburban strip developments and I am glad we saw it and I can understand how some may love it but I left with a sense of sadness.

Our day in New Orleans was on a non Mardi Gras parade day.  We hadn't been in New Orleans since 1967.  That was the year that the Superdome plans were being drawn up.  

When we were here in 1967 the two things I remember most was a stop at Cafe Du Monde and a night at the Club My Oh My.  

The Club My Oh My is no longer in business.  It was a female impersonator club and I am sure Walt was laughing at me because I was there for quite awhile before I figured out that all of those beautiful women performing onstage and even waiting on our table were actually men. Oh My Oh My was their grooming perfect.  

The Cafe Du Monde is still there.  

We stopped by for our order of beignets. Beignets are square French -style doughnuts, lavishly covered with powdered sugar.  Oh so good!

The French Quarter is the oldest neighborhood in New Orleans.

It looks much the same as when we were here in 1967.  

Some of the buildings have been renovated.

Others have fallen into disrepair but the feel is still the same.

Many of the buildings date back to the early 1800's.  

The French Quarter is always in a party mode.

Many businesses are definitely R rated.

There is always music being played on the streets.

It is non-stop activity in the French Quarter.

You can take a carriage ride.

You can shop.  There is the shirt I bought.  

The Fleur de Lis is a symbol that goes back in history to the French Monarchy.  Today it is associated with New Orleans as a symbol of unity.  It is emblazoned on the New Orleans Saints football teams helmets and uniforms.

It has now  undergone controversy because in the 1700's if a slave ran away and was caught they were branded with a fleur de lis as a sign of a troublemaker.  It seems that the consensus is that it will remain because it is now embraced as a sign of unity. 

A visit to New Orleans would not be complete without tasting some of their food.

We went to the Oceana Grill because I had heard that their Crab Cakes were the best.  They were. Drizzled with a cream sauce filled with crawfish on top.  Oh crawfish and crab how I will miss ye!  I do regret that we didn't get to visit the Garden District but being so early in the year the yards would have not been at their full glory.  Besides there needs to be something left for another time.

Our day in New Orleans ended at sunset with a view of the U. S. flag flying in Jackson Square.  

"New Orleans is kind of dark in a very beautiful way."

Nicole Anderson

 

 

 

 

 

Happy Mardi Gras

We wanted to go to one of the large Mardi Gras Parades.  The locals had advised us to think twice about going to one in New Orleans.

So we chose one in Metairie. It is only about 8 miles from New Orleans. Each Mardi Gras parade is done by a Krewe.  A Krewe is an organization that puts on a ball or parade for the Carnival season.

The parade we went to was organized by the Krewe of Caesar.  

Founded in 1979, the Krewe of Caesar takes the name of an actual historical figure rather than a myth as many other Krewe's have done. Formed by more than 800 men and women members, Caesar is the largest Carnival organization in Jefferson Parish history. This organization is known for spectacular costumes for members of the royal court, with fiber-optics, neon and three-dimensional figures adorning the enormous costume collars. The Krewe of Caesar is also known as the Roma Club.

Darth Vader and the Star Wars Group of the 501st Legion was chosen as Grand Marshal of the Krewe of Caesar Parade for 2016.

The theme for 2016 was Caesar's Storybook.

We watched the parade on Bonnabel Boulevard that is in a neighborhood of pretty houses with a large grassy median separating the road lanes. 

The crowd was made up mainly of families.  The children were so excited.  They patiently waited for the street to close so they could go out and toss footballs and frisbee's with their friends.  

But once the parade started the focus was on what was being thrown from the floats and how they could outrun everyone else to catch it.

There was so much being thrown!  Stuffed animals, souvenir cups, doubloons, frisbees, trinkets and beads.  Beads and more beads.  

The costumes and lighting were spectacular.   

It was as if each one was prettier than the last.

The neon artwork has been a part of the parades since 1938.

Dad's build seats on ladders for their children so that they have a good view and a better chance to catch the items that are thrown from the floats.

Thousands of dollars go into the making of the floats not to mention all the time spent in creating them and the costumes.

"Where the Wild Things Are"............one of my favorite children's books.

Winnie the Pooh and Tigger too.

Look at those cute dimples. 

A pirate or two.

Oh Pinocchio what lies have you been telling?

Buzz Lightyear was there.

Charlotte had spun her web.

The Krewe of Caesar's signature float is the Hydra, a mythic beast that had the body of a serpent with many heads and known for emerging from it’s swamp home and attacking local villagers and their cattle.

Pretty scary sight.

I LOVED the parade.  I am sure it didn't have the excitement and crazy behavior of the ones in the French Quarter but it was safe and a feast for the eyes.   

My first strand of beads was put around my neck by a nice man along with a Mardi Gras kiss on the cheek.  And from there I got more than my share of beads, doubloons, a cup and a frisbee.  

It was fun to experience the magic of Mardi Gras. 

 

 

Mike The Tiger

Louisiana State University is located in Baton Rouge.  We enjoy college football and LSU is usually one of the top ranked teams.  College campuses are always interesting to visit.

Tiger Stadium is also known as "Death Valley" because of the high level of crowd noise.  It holds 102,321 fans and the noise level has actually been measured on a seismograph and has equalled a magnitude 4.7 earthquake.  

The purple and gold colors are plentiful in Louisiana.  It is amazing how many people wear LSU gear.

The LSU athletic teams mascot is the Tiger.

LSU does take it's mascot to a different level.

Meet Mike the Tiger.

In 2005, a new $3 million Mike the Tiger Habitat was created for Mike between Tiger Stadium and the Pete Maravich Assembly Center (the basketball arena).   It tops out at 15,000 square feet. It is pretty luxurious with a waterfall, lots of plants and plenty of places for Mike to climb.

This Mike is the 6th for LSU.  Born on October 10, 1935, the first Mike was purchased from the Little Rock Zoo with money raised by collecting 25 cents from each LSU student for a total of $750.  He arrived on the campus in October 1936 and was named after Mike Chambers, the athletic trainer at the time. 

On home football game days, Mike's cage on wheels is parked by the opponent's locker room at the southeast end of Tiger Stadium. Opposing players must pass by Mike's cage in order to reach their locker room. (However, Mike is never forced into his trailer: if he does not go in on his own, he remains in his habitat. The current Mike, Mike VI, is known for rarely entering his trailer.)  

With my love of tigers I could have stayed all day but there was more to see.

Those of us getting on in age will remember "Pistol" Pete Maravich and his amazing, unusual basketball shooting ability.  He played for LSU from 1996 to 1970 and went on to play in the pro's. 

Another famous player for LSU is Shaquille O'Neal.  Between the Maravich Center and the basketball practice facility is a huge bronze statue of O'Neal. 

There is lots to see on the campus and the LSU fans are loyal.  Everywhere you go in Louisiana you find a sea of purple and gold, bumper stickers, LSU flags on houses and trucks decked out with LSU logos and colors. 

Tigers are nice but Boise State Bronco's are the best.  

 

The Capitols In Baton Rogue, LA

Our visit in Sulphur, LA was over and we moved on to Livingston, LA.  Our spot at Lakeside RV Resort was right on the lake and I really enjoyed the view.

The geese were not shy at all and interesting to watch.

With all the moisture in the south the mornings are frequently foggy but waking up to this sight was so beautiful as the fog swirled on the lake. 

A nice way to start the day.  We were on our way to Baton Rogue.

 I had heard how fabulous the Old Louisiana State Capitol was.  It has now been turned into a museum but none of the displays hide how outstanding it is.

 Yes, it looks like a castle. On September 21, 1847, the city of Baton Rouge donated to the state of Louisiana a $20,000 parcel of land for a state capitol building. The land donated by the city for the capitol stands high atop a bluff facing the Mississippi River.  The amazing state house is one of the most distinguished examples of Gothic Revival architecture in the United States.  Designed by architect James Harrison Dakin, its floorplan, towers, exterior stained glass windows and gables give it the appearance of a 15th-century Gothic Cathedral.

The artist of the white, marble lions that flank the steps is unknown.  I thought they were magnificent.

The circular windows have inset foils.  There are many different shaped and colored windows in the structure.

 As you enter the interior the main circular staircase gives a hint of the grandeur of the building.  It gives an impressive entrance to the rotunda above. 

The majesty of the three story sky-lit rotunda is gradually revealed.

There are no words to describe this elaborate sight.  At first I thought "this is like being in a cathedral" then I changed my mind..........."this is like being in the middle of Mardi Gras".  

 When the Capitol was originally built it did not have the stunning spiral staircase or the astonishing stained glass.

In 1862, during the Civil War, the Union Army took possession of the Capitol.  At first it was used as a prison.

Then it was used to garrison the African-American troops under General Culver Grover.  While being used as a garrison the building caught fire twice.  (The volunteer's words were " I don't know what those hooligan's were doing but they were destructive". The Confederacy vs the Yankee's is still alive and well in Louisiana.)   The fires transformed Louisiana's capitol into an empty gutted shell abandoned by the Union Army.

After the Civil War ended in 1865 the building was returned to Louisiana and the legislature appropriated money to rebuild in 1880.  William A. Freret was placed in charge of the reconstruction. Under Freret, the capitol's famous spiral staircase and stained glass dome were added, as well as a fourth floor.  The above room was the Senate Chambers.  Who could think of politics in such an elegant room?  Especially when the sun would stream through the windows. 

The end walls of the Senate Chamber have these pretty windows.  

 This is in the House Chamber.  It is being renovated and I am sure it will be every bit as attractive as the Senate. 

If you visit the Old Capitol don't miss “The Ghost of the Castle.”  It is a one-of-a-kind four-dimensional theatrical production, complete with storms, fires, war and you come face to face with the ghost of Sarah Morgan, a Civil War-era Baton Rouge resident who loved the capitol that was often called a castle from the day it was built and wrote about it in her published book, Sarah Morgan: The Civil War Diary of a Southern Woman. Sarah’s ghost conjures the building’s remarkable trials through history, showcasing the determination of everyday Louisianans who have saved the castle time and time again. With floating images from the past surrounding the room, this presentation entertains you and again reaffirms that the South still would like to present the "correct" version of history.  

 

In one of the wings there are several busts displayed like this one of Napoleon. 

But, the George Washington space is empty prompting Walt to ask the volunteer where he was.  During the Civil War it was stolen by the Union Soldiers and taken up North.  After the war is was shipped back to New Orleans and stored in a warehouse.  The warehouse burned and the bust was gone leaving the pedestal empty. 

There was a lot of Louisiana political information to review.  Louisiana politics is a controversial yet interesting topic. Enough said.  But, I do wonder if Huey Long cringes at the state of I10 through Louisiana.  Pretty bad shape in 2016. 

The refurbished statehouse remained in use until 1932, when it was abandoned for the new Louisiana State Capitol building.  True to Louisiana politics this was controversial too. 

The State Capitol is one of the foremost examples of the art deco design which was popular in the 1930s.   The building stands 450 feet tall (34 floors,) making it the tallest capitol in the United States.

The Louisiana State Capitol is often thought of as "Huey Long's  monument" due to the influence of the former Governor and U.S. Senator in getting the capitol built.  On September 8, 1935, Huey Long was assassinated in a corridor in the Capitol.   We did not visit the interior of the building.  I was still processing the situation with the politics in Louisiana and Walt was trying to recover from a bad cold so we called it a day. 

"One of these days the people of Louisiana are going to get good government - and they aren't going to like it."

Huey Long

 

The Houses Of Lake Charles, LA

We spent a day in Lake Charles, LA.  Lake Charles surrounds the city along with Prien Lake and the Calcasieu River.  

Being surrounded by all that water many of the homes are actually on the water or have a water view.

 Shell Beach Drive which skirts Lake Charles on the south shore was once the continuation of the Old Spanish Trail.

For decades before the opening of the 1950 Calcasieu River (I-10) Bridge on the north edge of the lake, transcontinental drivers were treated to some of the most sumptuous architecture and gardens on this very drive.

 There are many styles of homes along Shell Beach from Georgian Manors, Louisiana Acadian,  Floridian Stucco to English Tudor.

Each  fine estate home is unique in more ways than one and most are historic landmarks dating to the early 19th Century, although there are some newly constructed homes.  This is the George Law House. The three-storied exterior is English manor and is constructed of cypress.

The Krause-Burton House is a Roman Revival.  Lots of that spooky Spanish Moss hanging from the 100 year old trees along the road.

The Richards House is one of the oldest on Shell Beach Drive.  It is now called Lakeview. 

 The Rudolph Krause House is a Scottish-Tudor-Balmoral style mansion with stucco and brick, leaded glass, and half timbering. Looks like this house would fit more  in the highlands of Scotland than in subtropical Lake Charles but Mr. Krause made his fortune in the lumber industry so that seems why he chose to build a house the showcases wood.

The homes of Shell Beach Drive in Lake Charles are grand southern homes and many have been occupied by generations of the same family.  

From Shell Beach we went into downtown Lake Charles.  This is a law firm.........a Family Law Practice of what I think is a very creative lady. 

The Calcasieu Parish Courthouse was built in 1912 and is still in use today.

Near downtown Lake Charles is the Charpentier Historic District.

Lake Charles is regarded as the capital of the Western Louisiana pine lands, fueling a lumber boom in the 1800s, impacting much of the City's architecture.

Experienced lumbermen from the North, known locally as "Michigan Men," arrived in Lake Charles. They brought with them the tall and angular style of construction that mirrored the Victorian tastes popular in most of America at the time.

Today, the Lake Charles sawmills and lumber yards are gone, leaving the unique homes of the Charpentier Historic District as the only reminder of its early twentieth century heritage.

The traditional rocking chairs on the front porch are plentiful.  The pretty porches abound. 

The Calcasieu Parish School System is the largest employer.  Oil refineries dot the landscape and Lake Charles has the biggest casino market in the state of Louisiana. 

What a treat!  The magnolia's are starting to burst forth.  An interesting day learning a little more about Louisiana. 


 

 

 

Crawfish, Crayfish, Crawdads, Freshwater Lobsters, or Mudbugs ????? I Will Call Them Delicious.

We attended the little town of Vinton's Mardi Gras Celebration and Gumbo Cook-off.  

The balloon lady was the most popular for the kids. 

But the hot ticket for the adults was the Crawfish Boil.  A totally new experience for us and my new favorite food.  My taste buds will scream in protest when we leave Louisiana. 

A wonderful lady covering the event for the local paper taught me the art of eating crawfish. First you snap off it's head (sucking out the fat from the head is optional but she loves it), then you use your thumbs to peel the shell away from the tail ( just like a shrimp), hold the tip of the tail and pull out the wonderful, delicious tender meat.  

We were curious about the process for the boil.  The crawfish are brought in live and dumped into kids swimming pools.  They are hosed off to clean the mud off them.  When the water is clean they add salt.

Then they are loaded into the big boiling pot filled with cajun seasoning along with a few potatoes and ears of corn. 

When they are cooked your order is handed to you in a plastic bag and you can take it to these special tables anchored over a trash can.  You can then shell them and throw the shells directly into the garbage can and enjoy the wonderful spicy flavor.  Walt agrees that they have a good flavor but thinks they are too much work.  As for me..............I would work twice as hard to be able to partake of them no matter which name they are known by.  

They had what I think must be the world's smallest Mardi Gras Parade.

But the tradition of throwing beads was not left out and I got my share.

A few decorated jeeps.

And one float and a good time was had by all.

Then it was on down to the the Knights of Columbus hall for the Gumbo Cook-Off.   First a bed of rice in the bowl.

Look at the huge pot of Gumbo. 

The finished product.  Very Good!  Thank you Vinton for your hospitality reminding us how good it can be to live in a small town.

I couldn't wait for more Crawfish.  We went to LeBlue's Landing in Sulphur.

This time is was Crawfish Bisque and Crab Cakes.  The next sampling was Crawfish Etouffee and fried tails.  Yes, Crawfish is my favorite.

Lest I give the impression that everything we are seeing is paradisiacal it's not.  There is much of scenes like above.  There is poverty, there is humidity and standing water everywhere.  Even in January there are mosquitos so I cannot imagine what it will be like when it warms up.  The litter and garbage dumped along the roadsides are dreadful.  For every one of the stately, beautiful homes that we see there are many that are being lived in that look like they should be condemned.  The petroleum industry fills the land with facilities that are not pretty and the smokestacks spewing fumes in the air can't be healthy. But, southern hospitality shows everywhere, people are gracious and you can never have enough "ya'all and bless your heart."

Plus if you live in Louisiana it makes getting dressed every day much easier.  If you are not in LSU gear you are in camo.  

“Being Southern isn't talking with an accent...or rocking on a porch while drinking sweet tea, or knowing how to tell a good story. It's how you're brought up -- with Southerners, family (blood kin or not) is sacred; you respect others and are polite nearly to a fault; you always know your place but are fierce about your beliefs. And food along with college football -- is darn near a religion.”
Jan Norris