Gypsy & The Navigator

More To Do In Amarillo

The American Quarter Horse Hall of Fame is in Amarillo.  We spent several hours enjoying the beautiful facility and the volumes of displays that are very well presented.

The museum begins outside where there are beautiful sculptures, showing the Quarter Horses in their various roles.  This is Wimpy P-1 who luckily did not live up to his name.  He was born  as just Wimpy on the King Ranch in Texas and was the winner of the stallion class in 1941.  The honor of P-1 was given to him to be listed as number one stud in the American Quarter Horse Associations book.

The statues depict the quarter horses as working stock.

They are shown as race horses.

The sculptures are so wonderfully detailed that it touches the heart.  This sculpture is about the relationship of the owner, Carol Harris,  with her horse, Rugged Lark.  I was overwhelmed by the detail of her hand on his chest. 

Once inside you enter the Grand Hall.  It is spectacular with its soaring rock columns and soft lighting.  

Looking down you see the interesting mosaic on the floor depicting all of the bloodlines that make up the present day breed. 

In the niches created by the rock columns in date sequence you learn about the people and horses inducted into the American Quarter Horse Hall of Fame.  Of course I had to single out Barbara L............and she was even born after me. In 1948, W. D. Lumpkin of San Angelo, Texas, paid $140 for a yearling filly. He changed her name from Anthem to Barbara L after his teenage daughter, who broke the bay filly to ride.  She had a distinguished racing career and later was a broodmare who had 14 foals.  11 of those foals went on to be highly rated.  Barbara L died in 1977 and was inducted into the Hall of Fame in 2007.  

There are many beautiful pieces of art inside as well.  The Quarter Horse is the only horse breed native to America and is the most popular in the U.S., highly valued as a ranch horse, race horse and the star of rodeos and other western riding events.

To be inducted into the Hall of Fame, horses and people must have been outstanding over a period of years in a variety of categories. They must have brought exceptional visibility and or contributions to the American Quarter Horse.  People being considered may be alive or deceased, but horses must be deceased.

The Annual Exhibit that was shown while we were there features twelve women who made a tremendous impact on the American Quarter Horse. Some were breeders, some were owners and competitors, and others were chroniclers and artists who recorded not only history but life at the time.  All were leaders and visionaries, and each left their mark on the American Quarter Horse.

While each was interesting for some reason Anne Burnett Tandy drew me in.  She was known as Miss Anne. She was a Texas heiress who was the only grandchild of Samuel “Burk” Burnett, a legend in the Texas cattle industry and founder of the legendary 6666 Ranch.  He died when she was 17, leaving her two-thirds of his estate. 

At 33, she was one of the single largest land holders in the world, with more than half a million acres under her domain. She became a renowned breeder of  American Quarter Horses. “I like women, but I don’t know how to talk to them,” she told a reporter for Town & Country magazine in 1974.  “I can talk to a man about anything, and I’m not shocked by anything a man says.”  Miss Anne died in 1980 living to be 80 years old. Her estate was inherited by her only daughter, Anne.  

There is a Gallery that is interactive and has several hands on activities for children.  Fun for adults too. 

Ruidoso Downs is on our wish list of races to attend.  

This was a wonderful destination for our day.  History, art, education and horses.  We would definitely recommend this as a place to visit if you are in the Texas Panhandle.

On our last day in Amarillo after getting our chores done in preparation for moving on Walt decided we would make one last stop.

Visitors are inundated with advertisements of The Big Texan.  It is the place that if you can eat a 72 oz steak, along with a shrimp cocktail, a salad, a baked potato and a roll in an hour you get the meal free.  If you don't make it it is $72.00.  No, Walt didn't try it.  I think he thought about it though.

I will admit I was a little skeptic about eating here.  I thought it would be just a tourist trap with bad food.   Hmmm, maybe if this is where the cowboys eat it can't be all bad. 

I was proved so very wrong.  The food was delicious.  Crispy cold Caesar Salad,  hot and steamy chicken soup.

Ribeye for me and Prime Rib for Walt.  Cooked to perfection and so tasty.  A nice way to finish off our week in Amarillo.  

"I ain't got a dime, but what I got is mine.
I ain't rich, but Lord I'm free.
Amarillo by morning, Amarillo's where I'll be.
Amarillo by morning, Amarillo's where I'll be."  

George Strait

 

 

Palo Duro Canyon.....The Grand Canyon Of Texas

About 30 miles from Amarillo is Palo Duro Canyon State Park.

Palo Duro Canyon State Park opened in 1934 and contains almost 30,000 acres of the northern most portion of the canyon.

It is the second largest canyon in the United States.

The canyon is 120 miles long, 20 miles wide in some places and over 800 feet deep.

Unlike the Grand Canyon in Arizona at Palo Duro Canyon you can drive to the bottom.

 

The drive down is so scenic.  There is a wonderful view around every curve.

There are many interesting formations.

There are caves for exploring. 

This incredible canyon has been formed by the Prairie Dog Town Fork of The Red River.  It runs red too.

The iron-rust orange hills seem to glow.  

I see an Indian with a headband sitting and contemplating his view of the mountain. 

There are three RV campgrounds in the park.  They have electric and water hook-ups and amazing views.

We were favored with such a beautiful day with warm air and the clearest chrome blue skies.

We stopped to have a picnic lunch in an empty camp site and it was alive with so many birds.  There were cardinals and woodpeckers darting here and there so fast it was impossible to get a decent photo.  We had entertainment with our lunch.

In 1916 Georgia O'Keeffe was teaching at what is now West Texas A&M University in nearby Canyon and was just starting to express her artistic talents. She loved the color and light in Palo Duro Canyon and soon she was painting vivid landscapes slashed with Palo Duro red. 

On the rim we saw what appeared to be a lone tree.  Walt checked it out in the binoculars and it indeed was a lone tree but it's companion was a wind mill pumping away.  The tree had water and flourished.

This rock chimney is all that remains of the Civilian Conservation Corp recreation hall.  The CCC was instrumental in putting people to work during the Great Depression and so much of their work was in our National and State Parks.  As we have traveled I have been very impressed with the structures that they built and how they are still in use today.  The CCC built the original infrastructure of Palo Duro Canyon State Park working for 5 years to create the roads, the lodge (now used as the visitor center), cabins and trails.  

The visitor center had a nice display about the CCC and they really were paid $1 a day.  Their housing, clothing, food and medical care was also provided. Times were hard and most of them sent the money they earned back home.  They learned job skills and the quality of the work they did still stands today.

A rich and colorful day in another park in this great country of ours.

There is still more in Amarillo coming up.

 

 

Amarillo By Morning, Amarillo's Where I'll Be.

As we headed further south and west from Dodge George Straits song about Amarillo kept going through my mind.  And happily for me Amarillo's where we'll be.

Again our route took us on small state highways through farmland and small towns. 

Every tree is precious out here.

This house right on the highway in a small town has such pretty landscaping.  

We made it!  Oasis RV Park is a very nice park with all of the amenities.  They even have pizza and wings available in the evenings.  And it is just down the road from Cadillac Ranch. 

Amarillo has a small downtown area with a few tall buildings.

Amarillo is home to the American Quarter Horse Association. It is an international organization dedicated to the preservation, improvement and record-keeping of the American Quarter Horse.   Around the city are about 100 horses around businesses and organizations.  Hoof Prints of the American Quarter Horse project began in 2002 to raise funds for Center City of Amarillo and promote art in public places. This one is an ode to Marilyn Monroe.

Each horse is painted by a local artist and they are an exact replica of a full size Quarter Horse.  This one was at our favorite afternoon soda stop, Sonic. Cherry Lime Ade on the hoof.

Businesses and individuals can purchase a horse at a cost of $3,500, which includes the completed fiberglass horse, the artist’s fee, a concrete slab and a plaque recognizing the name of the artist and owner.  This one is at a Wells Fargo Bank and is complete with stagecoach.  It is fun driving around town looking for them.  Walt always seems to find them first.

There are a lot of things to do in Amarillo and if you are interested in RVing the Jack Sisemore Traveland RV Museum is a must do.  It is a large RV dealership that started in the 70's and is now Amarillo's largest RV dealer. 

Mr. Sisemore began collecting vintage trailers, campers, and mobile homes in the 1980s.  His museum, which has its own building at the dealership, is free.  Just ask at the desk and they will guide you back to the building.

The building is full from roof to floor of RV's, motorcycles, boats and cars.  This is an old Airstream that was part of Wally Byam's Caravan. Wally Byam was the founder of Airstream and he an his wife traveled internationally in his Airstreams.  In 1955 this globetrotting inspired the Wally Byam Caravan Club International to promote traveling in an Airstream. The club is still in existence today.

This is a 1948 Flxible bus that was used by the Gornicke family in the Robin Williams movie RV.  

It was modified for the movie.  I loved that they left the floor well that I remember from riding Greyhound way back that you had to step up to get into your seat.  

 

This 1975 Itasca was the first Itasca Motorhome ever built.  Serial # 1.  It was the prototype for Itasca.  It was in Winnebago's Welcome Center for over 20 years.  It has 6000 original miles and is in new condition.

Oh so 70's.  We had that gold shag carpeting in the first house we bought in 1970.

We bought a brand new El Camino just like this except ours was gold.  We bought it and only drove it from the dealership to Walt's Dads house and stored it before going to Hawaii for a few months. I came back before Walt did, got it out of the garage and drove a few miles and steam rolled out of the hood and the side mirrors fell off.  They hadn't prepped it very well.  The radiator hose wasn't tightened and obviously the mirrors weren't screwed on. The dealership fixed it and I don't recall any further problems after that.  Fun to have memories triggered.

This little 1946 Tear Drop was made from a kit.  The kits were surplus aluminum left over after World War II.  

All the comforts of home.  

Love the story on this 1953 Fleetwood that they ran across at a filling station 15 years ago.  

It was owned by an 84 year old lady that had been traveling in it full time across the country.  She sold it saying that "it was time for her to quit camping."

A 1967 Hippie Van.  How many young people started their camping experience like this?  

 What a pleasure to wander through this great museum.  And it is free.   It is a must do if you are in Amarillo.

Another Amarillo must do is Cadillac Ranch.  Along Route 66 stand 10 Cadillacs buried nose down in the dirt.  The angle is supposed to be the same as the Great Pyramid of Giza.  

Amarillo billionaire Stanley Marsh 3 wanted a piece of public art that would baffle the locals.  

A group of art hippies from San Francisco were looking to create some alternate art and somehow convinced Marsh to allow it on land he owned.  They called themselves the Ant Farm. They came up with a tribute to the evolution of the Cadillac fin.  The Caddies face west in a line, from the 1949 Club Sedan to the 1963 Sedan de Ville.   That was in 1974 and today the fins are barely recognizable.

Stanley Marsh 3 and the Ant Farm were tolerant of the people that would stop along the road, deface them and rip off parts as souvenirs.  Eventually they gave up and encouraged it.  

Today they are barely recognizable for what they originally were but Cadillac Ranch is as popular as ever.  You feel that you would be missing something if you didn't go through the gate, walk across the lumpy field and make your mark.  

We made our mark and were sure that it would be covered over before we even got back to our car.  No messy cans of spray paint for us.  Just a good old Sharpie.  We have this photo as proof that our mark was there............however briefly.  

Further proof.

While I was photographing I was being photographed.  Not sure why the man thought that this would be a good place to fly his drone but he was getting lots of attention.  

The day we were there was a beautiful, warm spring day.  The next day was a blustery day with wind gusts up to 40 mph and the crowds were bigger than the day before.  I hope they sprayed their paint in the wind direction.  Weather cannot prevent the pull of the pilgrimage to this popular spot. 

Down the road some unburied Cadillacs.   There's lots to see and do in Amarillo.  Stay tuned for more to come.  

"Museums are good things, places to look and absorb and learn."

Alan King

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We Got Outta Dodge!

Our journey continued west.  Through a part of the Great Plains.  I understand the portion we are going though is accurately the High Plains.

The land is flat and frequently dotted with oil wells.  

It was a trip zig zagging through small state highways with lots of farming and flat open fields. 

The only excitement we had was limited to passing by at 70 mph.  The police had this car stopped, the cop on the right was drawing his gun and the other cop was searching inside the driver side of the car.  Wouldn't this be a good time for a police scanner??????? I really wanted to know what was happening. 

And there was a scene that looked like it was from the movie "The Birds."   The sky was dark with them.  Must be safety in numbers.

There were many abandoned farm houses.  With several traveling hours and not many distractions it left me quite a bit of time to wonder about what caused the families to leave these old homes.  Did they come into some money and move into a big house in town?  Were times so tough that they packed up what they could and went in search of a better life?  Did the younger family members build a new house and when Mom and Dad died they just left the old house stand empty?  If walls could talk we were too far away to hear. 

It is windy on the plains so there are hundreds of wind turbines.  Kansas is the second windiest state in the U.S. so it makes sense that they are planting "wind farms."

At last!  We made it into Dodge City, KS.  We checked in to the Gunsmoke RV Park and got set up.

It was just in time to enjoy a Kansas sunset.  

The next day it was time to check out Dodge. We were surprised to find about 16 miles of brick streets in Dodge.  They were constructed between 1912 and 1925.  We enjoyed driving up and down the streets looking at the old houses and business buildings.  I was sad to see that they were filling pot holes in them with black top.  I wish they would  take the time and pay the expense to repair them with bricks.  They are such a historic feature of the town.

We spent several hours at the Boot Hill Museum.  Dodge City, Kansas is famous in history as a wild frontier town of the Old West.

Boot Hill Museum was built on the original location of the infamous Boot Hill Cemetery.  In the late 1870's to early 1890's the killings in Dodge were so numerous that it was impossible to keep track of them all.  With the gunfighters dying with their boots on and being buried that same way the cemetery was called Boot Hill.  There are several children there too who died of things like scarlet fever and diptheria. 

Nice poem posted at the cemetery.  The frontier "cowtown"and "buffalo capital" of Dodge City was so lawless for several years that burials in the cemetery were frequent.  

 

For being such a lawless town the jail was awfully small.  But, it was only used as a temporary fix..............if it was a serious offense the prisoners were sent to the stockade at Fort Dodge.

They have a nice display about the American Indians that were in the area.  Kiowa, Cheyenne and other plains tribes inhabited the area.  Again it was one of those times that I have such a hard time reconciling what was done to them.  This time it was that the government ordered the slaughter of the buffalo to starve the Indians and drive them to reservations.  

Seeing these brought back memories for Walt.  He had some like these that his Dad had gotten from the Shoshone-Bannocks at Fort Hall.  Wish he still had them.

They had a room dedicated to the TV show "Gunsmoke" since it was set in Dodge City.  FYI  there was no real Marshal Matt Dillon.  Who remembers rabbit ears?  You could make really good ones out of coat hangers.

The Museum has replicated the main street of Dodge from old photos and written documentation.  There are some original buildings that have been moved to the location as well.  Along Front Street are the Rath General Store, the Long Branch Saloon Cigar Shop, Dry Goods Store, Tonsorial Parlor, Doctors Office and more.

You can go inside the buildings that have the museum displays of what life was like in Dodge City.  

You learn a lot about the World Famous Boot Hill Gunfighters.  Lawmen and Outlaws alike.  Cowboys had been on the trail for many weeks and when they finished their duties on the trail, they were ready to have some fun.  Conflict often arose and you never knew what to expect in the wild and wicked city of Dodge.

I love the old bottles that the medicines came in.  Wouldn't it be great to go into the pharmacy today and see the drugs displayed in pretty glass bottles?

I'll bet when they handed out your medicine it wasn't in those impossible to open bottles or those blister packs that have to have the pill popped out of. But, I am sure the medication didn't work like it does today.  

The bank was so small.  The safe was right in front of the teller window. No wonder there were so many bank robberies.  Easy pickin's. 

Any of you ladies looking for a new hobby?  Since this one was not open at the top it was not a mourning wreath.  An open-end at the top of the wreath symbolized the deceased’s ascent to heaven. So, this might have been a family wreath or churches, schools and other groups might make a hair wreath from the current congregation or school.  How times have changed.  

 

It was good to spend a day transported back to the 1800's.  Not so nice to be transported back to the present that night for the scariest storm I have ever experienced.  I was very frightened and Walt was his cool, calm self.  Suffice it to say I was happy when we "Got Outta Dodge!"

“The weather is nature's disruptor of human plans and busybodies. Of all the things on earth, nature's disruption is what we know we can depend on, as it is essentially uncontrolled by men.”

Criss Jami, Killosophy

 

 

Time With Friends And Family

It was hard to leave lovely Lexington but it is time for us to keep on heading west.

Kentucky continued to be pretty, hilly and green as we headed south and west to a little town in southwestern Kentucky named Cadiz.  Not sure why it was named Cadiz.  Someone who was there when it was named must have been from Spain and named it after the port city there.  

When we planned our trip into Lexington and the next stop was Olathe, Kansas we realized that a stop in Cadiz would be entirely possible.

We made a reservation online at Lake Barkley State Resort Park.  I selected a spot that looked like it was in a good place.  When we arrived there was a water leak and the site was underwater.  OK, the attendant that had been there a week told us to take another spot.  Walt found one that looked nice and level and she said that was fine. He backed in and parked.  He started set up outside and I started inside.  After a few minutes he called to me............"Do you have power?"  No we don't.  The attendant called maintenance and he came and said we would have to move.  This site has not had power in months and it would be months before it would be fixed. 

Finally we were settled into a pretty spot and fully hooked up.  Why are we in Cadiz, KY?  

To see Walt's friend from the Navy.  We hadn't seen him since 1967.  What a pleasure to talk about old memories and to catch up on what has been happening in our lives.  Aren't they a handsome pair?  

Ray and his gracious companion, Dumpy (short for Dumpling) were wonderful hosts showing us their southern hospitality with a grand tour of Cadiz and the rolling farmland surrounding it.  

 

They took us to the Cadiz Cafe and we had in our estimation the best Kentucky fried chicken ever.  The Colonel would be jealous. 

 

Funny story about what a small world it is.  While we were in the Great Smoky Mountains I was hiking around down by the creek and Walt stayed behind and got talking to a man and he told Walt he was from southwestern Kentucky.  Walt asked him if he knew where Cadiz was.  He said "Yes, that is where I am from."  Then Walt asked if he know Ray.  Of course he did (that is one of the special things about Cadiz..........everyone knows everyone.) and he brought Walt up to speed about Ray.  : )  Showing that wonderful southern hospitality he offered to let us park our RV at his car lot.  While we didn't take him up on that Dumpy and Ray took us by his farm and we said hello.  These are two of his many horses. I think Cadiz is one of the friendliest places we have ever been.  Plus it is one the route of 400 mile Yard Sale.  We had a marvelous time visiting with old and new friends.

From Cadiz we headed somewhat north and mainly west toward Olathe, KS.  We had newly acquired knowledge that the miles and miles of yellow headed crops were canola.  

We whooshed through Illinois on to Missouri and a quick freeway view of St. Louis.  Too fast and sun in the wrong direction to get a photo of the Arch. So I found one on the internet.   It is amazing how it dominates the city horizon.  It was built as a monument to westward expansion of the United States identifying St. Louis as the Gateway to the west.  While I am working on my fear of heights and making some progress I know I could not go up in it. They say the tram cars you ride up and down swing like a ferris wheel ride.  I am a little queasy just thinking about it. 

We had a stopover in Columbia, MO.  It is home to the University of Missouri............Mizzou.   

The campus is on 1256 acres and it is maintained as a Botanical Garden.  It really was pretty.   William Least Heat-Moon, who wrote Blue Highways, graduated from there.  I love how he writes. 

We are amazed as we drive around the size of the lawns in this part of the country.  Mowing lawns must be a full time job!  

On through Kansas City, home of the 2015 World Champion baseball team.  

After living in California and Arizona for so long this spring full of bulbs made me so delighted since they didn't grow in my yards in CA or AZ.  Pleased to see them again in Kansas.

Happy to be in Olathe visiting Walt's brother Sam, his wife Maureen, and their family.  They were great hosts.  Treating us to yummy food and being tour guides for sights in the area.  Nice to have time for the brothers to reminisce about old times and to get more acquainted with the new times in our lives. 

A special treat for us was being able to attend the birthday party of one of their grandsons that allowed us to meet all of the children, their spouses, and the grandchildren.  Sam and Maureen are fortunate to have all their children very close by.  We had such a nice time visiting with their family.  Looking forward to next time.

 "You don't choose your family. They are God's gift to you, as you are to them." 

Desmond Tutu

 

 

 

 

 

 

A Unique Horse Farm Tour

We couldn't get enough of horses so went for a Horse Farm Tour to some of the premier Kentucky horse farms. 

Our first stop was at Hurricane Hall.  The original house on the property was built in the 1790's.  It was purchased in 1803 by Colonel Roger Quarles. The house remained in the family and his grandson had 12 children and it is said that the children ran through the house like a hurricane.  That is when it became Hurricane Hall.  No one lives in it today and that may be because they say it is haunted by those children still running through the house. The house is on the Hurricane Hall Farm property 

Hurricane Hall Farm is owned by Billionaire Brad Kelley.  He now also owns the historic Calumet Farm.  The barn is beautiful......a perfect home for those valuable horses. 

The fillies came running when they saw there were visitors.

These horses don't care that they are worth a fortune.  They still love the pats and attention from us humans. 

Next stop.................Shadwell Farm.  Owned by Sheikh Hamdan bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Deputy Ruler of Dubai.  The Shadwell Farm in Lexington, Kentucky was constructed in 1985. This is the farm's stallion division.   

This place is beyond imagination.  This is one of the many stallion barns on the property.  This is a world class facility and the horses descend from the best bloodlines in the world.  Our tour guide, Shaun, and the trainers, grooms etc at the facilities can spout off the ancestry of every horse we met. Amazing. 

We didn't get very close to the stallions.  Their grooms were very protective and the stallions can be dangerous.  This is Albertus Maximus.  He earned over $1.3 million in his races but I am sure that stud fees will outpace that.  Shadwell Farm is also home to many of the world's top broodmares.

This is Intidab.  He won over a half million and with his bloodline his stud fees must bring in a fortune.  

This is the breeding barn.  Planked wood ceilings, padded walls, and perfectly raked ground.  

They have spent millions on landscaping.  It is spectacular.  The stories that our guide told about the Sheik almost defy reality.  The amount of money that he has and spends is beyond comprehension.  Billions of dollars are spent.  He has two planes that are for transporting horses that hold 100 horses each.  His wife buys truckloads of merchandise that is flown back to Dubai with them on their white 747.  When the Lexington Airport wanted to expand a runway onto his property his answer was "No, the planes bother my horses now."  When they insisted he told his manager to buy the airport.  When the airport realized he meant it they did their expansion in a different direction.  It was eye opening to spend time in such a place. 

We made a stop at Park Equine Hospital.  One of their wonderful young vets (Tia) took us on a tour and to say I was impressed would be an understatement. I wish that I would have the medical care that they lavish on the horses they treat. Most of all I would love to have the medical staff that I deal with have the care and concern that they do.  She took us through how they are handled from the time that they are admitted until they are healed and released.  The facility is fully equipped and immaculately clean. They even have a drive up window for their pharmacy!  They also make "farm" calls when that is necessary.  This part of the barn is the quarantine area and happily while we were there no horses were in that part.  
 

Next stop KatieRich Farms.  Owned by Larry Doyle it was originally a cattle farm until he purchased it in 2007.  That was the beginning of extensive renovations that transformed it into a world class breeding farm. 

His barns are awesome.  Those horses don't lack for any comforts.  All barns were designed by Mark Hubley who is the farm manager.

Mares and foals are brought in every day, groomed and feet checked, temperatures taken and eating habits closely monitored.  

There were so many foals...........perfect time of year to see them.

Aren't they beautiful?  

Baby horse perfection.  Just think this little one could be gracing some of the biggest races in the country in the next few years.

Interesting to hear our guide and the employees debating how much these little babies will sell for......................guesses were from 2 to 3 million.  Wow! This is not an industry for the middle class. 

Disclosure.  This mare was my favorite.  She was absolutely grand and her coloring was like a blue fox coat I once owned.  There is something about that soft nose and the push she gives in hopes you have brought a treat that makes me melt.  

Our guide, Shaun, is in red and KatieRich owner, Larry Doyle, is on the right.  Mr. Doyle was so cordial welcoming us to his farm.  I would think it would be a little stressful to have strangers wandering around your valuable horses.  Shawn was raised in Lexington and has owned race horses so has close contacts in the farms.  He has a working knowledge of the farms and his behind the scenes stories were very entertaining.  

Although the tour lasted longer than the original 3 hours we were told it was absolutely too short for me.  This is the gorgeous entrance to Keeneland Race Course.  This is where a portion of the movie "Seabiscuit" as filmed in 2003.  Races at Keeneland only run about 16 days in April and then again 16 days in October.  The next day was opening day and we had planned on going, however, the day dawned cold and rainy and we decided it probably wouldn't be much fun being outside for hours so we did not go.  It is probably going to be one of my big regrets.

"The horse, with beauty unsurpassed, strength immeasurable and grace unlike any other,
still remains humble enough to carry a man upon his back."

~ Amber Senti

 

 

 

 

Lexington, KY...............A Little Bit Of Horse Paradise

Leaving Tennessee we were on our way to Kentucky.  We wanted to see horse country.  What better place than the Horse Capital of the World, Lexington, KY.  And what better place to stay than at the Kentucky Horse Park Campground.

The RV Park is acres of bluegrass and trees right next to the Horse Park.

Lexington is beautiful.  Lush grass as far as the eye can see, miles and miles of fences, and the most elegant barns we have ever seen.

As soon as we had Gypsy II settled we went out for a drive.  First lesson................fencing.  The fencing is usually either black or white.  The white is not as frequent.  The reason for more black fences than white is money.  It costs three times as much for white paint and black fences go four years before needing repainted and white only goes two years.  Most farms have miles of fence so this makes a big difference.  Also, notice in the photos that very often there is double fencing.The double fencing between paddocks or fields keeps horses from interacting across a common fence (a stallion can be a very dangerous animal) and also allows vehicles and farm machinery to move easily around the property. Double fencing along the road is for safety.  If a horse breaks through one they will still be contained by the other and if a vehicle runs through one fence they usually will be stopped before the second. The protection of the horses in Kentucky is taken very seriously.  

As we drive along I am captivated by the beauty of the countryside and the pristinely kept barns. 

The horse barns are in varied colors but the tobacco barns are black. The black color raises the temperature inside aiding in the curing of the tobacco.

The rolling hills make for a fun drive.  Pastures fenced in black, trees swathed in ivy, grass so green it hurts the eyes, and the anticipation of sighting another majestic horse. 

I think that most young girls have a period of time where they LOVE horses.  I sure did.  Read the books........Black Beauty, National Velvet, My Friend Flicka................had horse figurines and when I actually got to ride one it was memorable.  Being here with horses everywhere that feeling comes back. 

 

We did a quick run through downtown Lexington.  It is a mix of old and new buildings, was very clean and neat and full of people and cars.

Lexington is Kentucky's 2nd largest city.  It is home to the University of Kentucky and Rupp Arena, the largest arena designed specifically for basketball, as well as the largest indoor arena by capacity, in the United States.  There seemed to be quite a bit of building going on, they are experiencing a rapid growing population. 

Downtown is home to Thoroughbred Park.  Time did not allow us to go through.  Darn, I understand it has wonderful bronze statues paying tribute to horses and jockeys.  This will be a place that could be a "come back" destination.  A lot of things that we didn't get to do! But, this visit was all about the horses.

 The day of our visit to the Kentucky Horse Park dawned cold, cloudy and windy.  Not to be deterred we bundled up and headed out.  The cool day meant less visitors and as the day went on it warmed up.  The Kentucky Horse Park is a working horse farm and a park dedicated to "man's relationship with the horse." 

Opening in 1978 the Park has been home to some of the world's greatest competition horses.  Nearly 50 breeds of horses graze upon its 1,200 acres of lush pastures.

There are many works of art depicting some of the great champions.  This is of Secretariat who won the Triple Crown in 1973.  He was an outstanding thoroughbred who won by 31 lengths in the Belmont.  Secretariat died in 1989 and given the rare honor of being buried whole (usually only the head, heart, and hooves of a winning race horse are buried, and the rest of the body is cremated).

The first thing we did was take the Trolley tour that gives an overview of the park.  The Trolley is pulled by the Clydesdale good friends, Colin & TJ.  Draft horses like the Clydesdales helped build America.  They pulled plows to prepare fields for seeding, pulled wagons of settlers west, pulled felled trees to sawmills. They’re still used on smaller farms and logging operations. Now most often when draft horses are thought of the Budweiser Clydesdales come to mind. 

Then it was off to meet the champions.  This is Go For Gin.  He is an American thoroughbred who won the 1994 Kentucky Derby.  He is happily living out his retirement at the Park.

Meet Won The West.  He is a Standardbred, the third richest pacer in North American harness racing history.  This form of racing involves horses pulling carts with drivers controlling them. He seems to be a favorite at the Park.  They say he loves people and loves to be scratched on his nose. 

We met several champions in the Hall of Champions but I think Funny Cide was my favorite.  He is a thoroughbred who won the Kentucky Derby and the Preakness Stakes in 2003.  He retired to the Park in 2008.  He is a little bit grumpy and not particularly happy at having to meet and greet.  Love that feisty personality.

We went to the Breeds Barn to see different breeds put on a little show.  My favorite was this Tennessee Walker.  Such grace, like a choreographed dance. We saw an Appaloosa and a Chincoteague pony too.

This was Walt's favorite.  A mustang with the unlikely name of Gilligan.  His cute little rider was an intern from the University of Michigan having the time of her life. 

"I am so bored with all these people.  How much nose petting..........scratching do I have to put up with?"

We spent several hours in their International Museum of the Horse.  It is a Smithsonian Affiliate, that examines the role of horses throughout world history, from ancient times to today’s most popular sporting events.  It also houses the Al-Marah Arabian Horse Galleries that focuses on Arabian horses. Both were so interesting and solidified the amazing relationship that humans have had with horses across the ages.  Tomorrow one more amazing day with the Lexington Champion Horses.  

"There is something about the outside of a horse that is good for the inside of a man."

Winston Churchill

 

Pigeon Forge, TN Has Been The Surprise Of Our Trip

We left Asheville and headed Northwest to Pigeon Forge, TN.  The drive was spectacular through the Great Smoky Mountains. 

Flowering trees lined the roadway.

The Great Smoky Mountains get their name from the smoke-like mist that rises from the upper regions of the mountains. However, it’s not actually smoke – it’s a condensated mist that is trapped and released by the trees and vegetation.

When I was planning our trip the reason I picked Pigeon Forge, TN for a stopover is because it is very close to the entrance to the Great Smoky Mountain National Park.

We had no idea what we would find there.  It was the biggest surprise we have had in our travels.  We felt like we had been living under a rock in the west to not know what this area was all about. 

This was our welcome to Pigeon Forge, TN.  We didn't know if we should keep going or turn around and run. 

We decided to continue on under the watchful eyes of John Wayne, Elvis Presley, Marilyn Monroe and Charlie Chaplin.

We settled Gypsy II into the nice Creekside RV Park and took a drive from Pigeon Forge to Gatlinburg to see if we could see what this was all about. 

Bumper to bumper traffic and the sidewalks filled with people.  We found out that annually, about 10 million people visit Pigeon Forge. The town only has around 6,000 residents that live there year-round.

Pigeon Forge, TN has more than ten theaters that host shows from music, to comedy, to acrobatics, to hypnotism, animal shows, and others that seem hard to put into a category.  We chose one that doesn't seem to fit a specific category.  More on it later.

Country music star Dolly Parton has an amusement park (Dollywood) and a water park (Splash Country) in Pigeon Forge.   Plus the roads are lined with bungee jumping, scary rides, kids rides, miniature Nascar race tracks, and the Great Smoky Mountains are right there.  It was the end of Spring Break for many so we thought that was why it was so crowded.  But, apparently it is like that most of the time.

The dinner show we chose to go to was Dolly Parton's Dixie Stampede.  It is a friendly competition between the North and the South.  When you get your tickets you choose which side you want to sit on.  We chose the North since there wasn't an option for the West.  

Before you go into the main arena you  are entertained by a group of award winning musicians.  They have played with Dolly and many other entertainers and the banjo player has been Nationally recognized. 

It is a fun filled show of Americana, horses, music, dancing  and even magic.

The North wears the blue and the South the red.

There were lots of precision horse movements.

 

It was interesting that several of the scenes dropped from the ceiling.   The show continues as you have dinner.  Applause is recommended to be by stomping your feet.

Dinner is interesting.  You are given no untensils.  Everything is eaten with the hands.  That is why they teach you to applaud by stomping.   The menu is cream of vegetable soup (luckily it is in a handled bowl so you can pick it up and drink it), a whole cornish game hen, a generous slice of pork, a baked potato, corn on the cob,a cheesy biscuit and for dessert a turnover.  Naturally your drink is in a mason jar.   What a fun way to spend an evening even if the South won. Those darn pigs should have run faster!

This is what we came for.  We spent a day in The Great Smoky Mountain National Park.

The Great Smoky Mountain is the most visited National Park.  We noticed that there is no entrance fee for this park.  I wonder if that is part of the reason why.  Probably not.............it is gorgeous. 

In the high areas the trees are still bare on top but the undergrowth is green. 

The scenic roadway passes through tunnels and does a loop over itself in one area where the previous roadway was too steep for some vehicles to climb or descend.  Walt got quite a kick out of that. 

I absolutely loved all the mountain streams. 

This mossy rock lined mountain stream is called Roaring Fork.  

I had planned a hike to a waterfall.  The hike was 3 miles round trip.  The park was really crowded and the parking lot was full.  We thought we might be able to park along the road......................it was over 3 miles down the road before there was a place to park.  That would have made a 9 mile hike.  Nope.....let's just find something else to do.

So we stopped and explored the Ephraim and Minerva Bales farm.   The Bales family of parents and nine children lived in this cabin from 1890 to about 1930.   It is a double cabin with a passageway between called a "dog trot."  The open space in between was cooler in the summer and warm in the winter. 

The ground is very rocky so material for building the two chimneys would have been easy. I am impressed that they are still intact after all this time.

The corn crib was quite close to the house.

The hog pen was pretty tiny.  We decided they must have only had one or two pigs or they must have been small.

The barn was down the hill a ways close to the creek.

Some of the dry stone stacked walls are still standing.

The farm was close to the creek so they would have had a good supply of water.

Not to mention a perfect place for those 9 children to cool off on a hot summer day.

Further along was a waterfall in a good spot for exploring.  

No matter how far I climbed the water kept coming.  I chickened out but the man that kept going in front of me didn't last long either and was soon on his way back down.  

New to me wildflowers.  White trillium.  I did see some columbine and violets too. 

Back to civilization.........................................Right?   

"It is good and right that we should conserve these mountain heights of the old frontier for the benefit of the American people."  

President Franklin D. Roosevelt

  

 

 

 

 

 

The Lush Landscape Of Biltmore Gardens

Frederick Law Olmsted designed the formal and informal gardens of the Biltmore Estate.  He was considered to be the Father of American landscape architecture.  He also designed Central Park and Prospect Park in New York City, and the master plans for both University of California, Berkley and Stanford University and multiple other famous Parks.

At age 66, Olmsted began his last opportunity to create a great arboretum and park in the English tradition combining hardscape, woodlands, fields, and gardens at the Biltmore Estate.

Olmsted found Vanderbilt’s estate provided him with an array of indigenous flora with which to shape the grounds -- rhododendron, mountain laurel, red bud, deciduous azalea, hemlock and pine among others.

The plantings are so varied that there is always something blooming or providing focus points of interest.  There is an Italian Garden, a Shrub Garden, a Spring Garden, a Walled Garden, a Rose Garden an Azalea Garden and a Conservatory.

The gardens are remote from the house allowing for a slow reveal as the paths and stairways are strolled.  

Because of the profusion of blooming bulbs in the walled garden and the unbelievable beauty of the flowers in the Conservatory that is where I spent most of my time. 

The remaining photos will probably not include much commentary.  I just want a place to store all the memories of the colors, shapes, perfumes, the beauty and the joy I feel among flowers and gardens. 

The rose garden will be ablaze with blooms in a month or two.  I love the herringbone pattern of the brick walkways.

The hardscape combines rocks, bricks, concrete and more that uses different depths and heights to dramatize the views.

The Conservatory appealed to my sense of symmetry.  Not to mention the anticipation of seeing what is inside.

The most appropriate garden furniture for the Victorian era.  Look at that detail.

I was so happy to see a Jack-in-the-pulpit in bloom.  This pretty little thing takes 5 years from seed to bloom.  

"If you have a garden and a library, you have everything you need." 

Marcus Tullius Cicero

In Asheville It's The Blue Ridge Parkway And The Biltmore

When we got to Asheville the first thing I wanted to do was drive the Blue Ridge Parkway.  It is a 469-mile scenic road winding through twenty-nine counties in the beautiful southern Appalachian mountains of Virginia and North Carolina.  We clocked 92 miles on our trip.  I told Walt that it would be fun to take Gypsy II and start at the northern most point and staying a few nights along the way do the entire trip. Then we read that one of the tunnels would not be high enough to allow her through.  Shot that idea down. 

Most of it is along the Blue Ridge Mountains.  They are named the Blue Ridge because from a distance they appear blue.  This is so true.  The Parkway was a product of the Great Depression of the 1930s and President Franklin D. Roosevelt’s New Deal programs to stimulate the economy and put people to work.

 

Work began on the roadway in 1935.  Construction was halted during World War II.  All but 7.7 miles was completed in 1966 and the rest opened in 1987. No commercial vehicles are allowed and the maximum speed limit is 45 mph.  And usually you are going slower either because of curves or climbs or just to enjoy the view. 

Since 1946, the Blue Ridge Parkway has been the most visited site in the entire national park system.  More than eighteen million visitors travel parts of the Parkway every year.

The views were so pretty but it led my imagination to think what it would be in another month or so.  Green, green and all those rhododendrons on the roadside would be in bloom.  Spectacular. 

The Parkway has 26 tunnels.  Only one tunnel is in Virginia and the remainder are in North Carolina.  We went through several.  The tunnels were constructed to reduce excessive landscape scarring that open cuts would have produced.  They are used in areas of steep terrain where ridges run perpendicular to the roadway alignment.  They are all constructed the same with attractive arched rock work.

There's that Blue Ridge.  Such a beautiful day.  The mountains and trees are so different than what we are used to in the west.  Mother Nature paints in different pallets. 

The next day with the beautiful Blue Ridge Mountains above us we went to the Biltmore Estate.  This house is so big that there was no way I would be able to get all of it in one photo without crossing the lawn and climbing the stairs to the hill and I thought that would take a chunk of time and I wanted to spend HOURS in the gardens.

It was so crowded and the shuttle driver told us that there were about 4000 visiting the day we were there and they consider that a quiet day.  Biltmore House is the largest privately owned house in the United States.  It is 178,926 square feet inside.  To put that into my understanding that means 80 average sized U. S. homes would fit inside it. 

The French Chateau styled mansion was built by George Washington Vanderbilt II between 1889 and 1895.  It has a steep pitched roof, a four story stair tower, and impressive gargoyles and spires that decorate the roof of the estate.  No wonder it took 6 years to construct.  Those stone cutters must have been worn out.  

George Vanderbilt was only 25 when he decided to build Biltmore House.  George W. Vanderbilt II inherited $1 million from his grandfather and received another million on his 21st birthday from his father. Upon his father's death, he inherited $5 million more, as well as the income from a $5 million trust fund.  Biltmore cost $5 million and Vanderbilt paid little attention to the family business or his own investments, and it is believed that the construction and upkeep of Biltmore depleted much of his inheritance.

The entire estate originally covered 125,000 acres but now it has been reduced to 8000 acres.  87,000  acres was sold to the Federal Government after Vanderbilt's death to become part of the Pisgah National Forest.  His widow, Edith, overwhelmed by the financial responsibility sold additional holdings. The house remains in the family and the estate is completely self-sufficient and receives no outside funding. It is open to the public and there are over one million visitors annually.  

The house has 250 rooms, 34 are bedrooms, with 43 bathrooms and 65 fireplaces.  This massive iron chandelier hanging from a single point in the center of the house served as the main focal point of the manor.  There is no flash photography inside the house and between that and the crowds I did not take many photos inside.  Many of the rooms are quite dark.  The self guided tour covers three floors and the basement.  With it crowded as it was you just line up and follow along.  Between the house and the gardens there are hundreds of steps.  There is minimal provision for handicapped people but they do offer a discounted ticket for those who can't visit all of the tour.  I was one tired lady at the end of the day.  

The Vanderbilt's opened their home to family and friends.  The dining room could accommodate dozen of their closest family and friends.  

The dining room has a massive triple fireplace.  

I think I prefer the servants dining room.

Many of the rooms and hallways were filled with books.  Mr. Vanderbilt had a collection of over 23,000 books. 

 

Mr. Vanderbilt's bedroom was furnished in red.

 Mrs. Vanderbilt's was purple and gold.   They had a large sitting room between their bedrooms.

I was surprised that the bathrooms I saw were not very luxurious.

Family and guests could enjoy the bowling alley.

They could swim in the 70,000 gallon, heated, indoor pool.  

The men could exercise in the gymnasium.

There are 3 kitchens.  I can't imagine how many servants they had on staff.

The tour of the house was interesting.  I loved the art, the shelves full of books, and many of the fireplaces were amazing but it was too much, too dark, too Victorian for me to be lingering.  I  couldn't wait to get to the gardens.  Next up..................the glory of Frederick Law Olmsted's design of the grounds.

"Every luxury must be paid for, and everything is a luxury, starting with being in this world." 

Cesare Pavese

 

 

One Bridge.........Two Bridge

We have been so busy seeing National Parks, immersing ourselves in cities, and getting Gypsy II set up to our liking that we haven't done what is probably our favorite thing for awhile.  Driving the back roads, going places most people haven't heard of or don't care about.  Staying in Greenville gave us that opportunity.  Along the roads, twining on trees, fences and poles there is wisteria growing wild.  I can remember babying my wisteria, practically begging it to bloom and getting a few blossoms.  Here it just grows everywhere.

Our drive to our destination wove through green farmland.  We saw crops that we did not recognize.  We need a farm guide.

We found it.  Poinsett Bridge.  It is believed to be the oldest surviving bridge in South Carolina and perhaps in the entire southeastern United States.

 It was built in 1820.  It was one of three structures on a toll road that ran from Charleston, SC through the upstate to Asheville, NC. 

It is named for Joel Roberts Poinsett, of poinsettia fame.  I read some of Mr. Poinsett's history and he was so much more than an amateur botanist.  He was in the South Carolina House of Representatives, Minister to Mexico and Secretary of War in 1837 among so many other things.  

Sources credit the actual design of the bridge to Robert Mills, a native Charlestonian and renowned American architect who designed the Washington Monument, the US Treasury Department building, and the University of South Carolina as well as other equally imposing edifices in Baltimore, Philadelphia and Columbia.

It is an amazingly beautiful structure spanning 130 feet over Little Gap Creek.  The Gothic Arch is 14 feet high.

I found the entire place enchanting.  It was like being in my own private paradise.  The sense of remoteness and eerie solitude amid rugged foothills and dense mountain laurel with the only sounds being the trickle of the creek and the birds chirping in the trees made a happy place.  

The bridge is now the entrance to a hiking path.  So amazing that most of the sidewalls are still standing.

Little wood violets grow out of crevices in the rocks.

The water cascades over the rocks in the creek making mini waterfalls.

Butterflies filled the air and rested in groups on the ground.   By this time I was asking Walt if there was any way we could just park Gypsy II here and stay.  After all we are old............shouldn't we qualify to be part of a National Register of Historic Places? 

We ate our picnic lunch and for the entire time no one else was there.  Solitude!  But, just as we finished our lunch a family came and were going to have a picnic by the creek too.  We moved on down the road.

White fencing, trees and bushes blooming.  Love this country drive.

Rust and logs.   Love this country drive.

Then a sign that said Covered Bridge.  Bridge #2.  Better yet.

Campbell's Covered Bridge is the only remaining covered bridge in the state of South Carolina.

Doesn't she look like she is tilted?  I thought it was because of its age but then I read the information board.  The bridge was built in 1909 by Charles Irwin Willis and he let the truss ends follow the natural lay of the land and then built the rest of the bridge to fit, therefore, the bridge is not square or plumb. 

The information says that he patented his design of a four span Howe truss on each side.  It went on to explain....criss crossing braces with vertical tie rods called Kingposts.  It was frequently used for railroad bridges. 

Lafayette Campbell, a grist mill owner, allowed his land to be used for the bridge's construction.  Covered bridges were popular in the mountains because they provided extra protection for river and creek crossings in snow and ice.  Probably most important for Lafayette Campbell was the fact that it was easier for the farmers to bring their corn to his mill.

The road across the bridge was permanently closed in the early 1980's.  The area is now owned by Greenville County and they have developed a nice picnic area overlooking Beaverdam Creek.  Great visit at Bridge #2.

Looks like a house straight out of Southern Living.  Porch swings, rockers, huge lawn, flowering trees and the Blue Ridge Mountains as a back drop. 

“Golden bridge, silver bridge or diamond bridge; it doesn’t matter! As long as the bridge takes you across the other side, it is a good bridge!”

Mehmet Murat ildan

Greenville SC Has A Lot To Offer

We left Savannah heading north on I95 through miles and miles of trees.  So many trees, so many colors. Many of the trees here leaf out in shades of orange, salmon, red, and yellow.  

The drive was scenic with evidence that spring has sprung in this part of the land.

We found our way to Ivy Acres RV Park and while our site was far from level this view out our window made up for it. 

Time was well spent swinging under the tree.

There is a lake to enjoy.

Blooming trees and paths to explore.

Even though your spot might not be perfectly level if you are ever in the Greenville area Ivy Acres is a perfect place to stay.

Our day in Greenville was full of so many blossoms I couldn't stop ooohing & aaahing.

Greenville is a small city of about 65,000 that has a lot going for it besides its proliferation of blossoms and blooms.  Greenville has several colleges and universities  including Furman University,  North Greenville University, Greenville Technical College and branches of Clemson University and the University of South Carolina.  I am sure that all this education and favorable wages and tax benefits has influenced companies like Michelin to move their headquarters here as well as Lockheed Martin, 3M, Honeywell, Caterpillar and General Electric to have large facilities in the area. 

Plus they have baseball.  It is home to the Greenville Drivers, a minor league team affiliated with the Boston Red Sox. Modeled after Fenway Park, home of the Boston Red Sox, Fluor Field at the West End boasts its own “Green Monster,” a 30-foot high wall in left field, equipped with a manual scoreboard. The dimensions all around the outfield wall are to the same specifications as Fenway Park, including “Pesky’s Pole” in right field.  Sadly they were playing out of town while we were there so no game for us.  And no opportunity for photos other than the sign.

It has a bustling downtown area with businesses, hotels, shops, and restaurants.

With all that Greenville has going for it this is the hands down winner for me.

This scenic area is known as "The Falls on the Reedy."

Hidden away by a mid town bridge for over 40 years the beauty was lost.

In the mid 80's the Carolina Foothills Garden Club and the City of Greenville started a cooperative movement to restore the area and make it a centerpiece for the city.

Reality for the project came in 2002 when the bridge was removed.

Falls Park was developed to include 20 acres of gardens showcasing Reedy River Falls.

The construction of a 355-foot-long, 12-foot-wide, curved pedestrian suspension bridge gives dramatic views of the falls and the gardens.

My fear of heights is getting under control slowly by slowly.  I was able to walk across the suspension bridge, staying in the middle, and enjoy the view and snap a few pictures.

The landscaped gardens are filled with flowers, bushes and trees.

After seeing the park I fully understood a story I had read about a couple who were traveling through and checked into a hotel.  The clerk told them to not miss The Falls on Reedy.  They walked across the street and took the stairs down to the Park.  After spending a few hours strolling through the park and along the continuing Swamp Rabbit Trail they were smitten.  The next morning their first stop was the local Real Estate Agent.  

I can certainly understand their falling for Greenville.  If I was looking for a home in the south it would be on the top of the list.

 

Spring flowers in abundance.  I am guessing that every season of flowers is well represented.

A last look at the falls from the other side of the river and a nice walk back to the car and a very enjoyable day in Greenville came to a close. 

Rubbing "Il Porcellino's" nose is said to bring good luck and a return trip to "Il Porcellino."   I'd like that.   

 

“It's spring fever. That is what the name of it is. And when you've got it, you want—oh, you don't quite know what it is you do want, but it just fairly makes your heart ache, you want it so!”

Mark Twain