Gypsy & The Navigator

The National Mississippi River Museum and Galena, IL

A pretty full day was spent at the Mississippi River Museum in Dubuque, IA.

It is a large museum comprised of multiple buildings and exhibits.

At the door that we entered in we were greeted by a huge paddlewheel.  It is from the William M Black that is docked at the Museum.  The paddlewheel had to be removed to allow it through the floodwall gates.

Exhibits are inside and out.

There are displays of wildlife native to the Mississippi River area.

There is a freshwater aquarium with native species as well as a salt water aquarium.

We spent quite awhile watching this rescued green sea turtle.  The turtle had suffered from an old fracture to the shell, probably due to a boat strike. The wound had healed, but the turtle's rear flippers are paralyzed.  That did not slow this turtle down. Swimming up, down and around seemed no problem.  

They had a great display of the stingrays that are native to the Mississippi River Delta.

There is information overload about the Steamboats that plied the Mississippi.  Some quite elegant, some hardworking.

We toured the William M Black that was built in 1934 to dredge the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers. 

It took a lot of machinery to propel by steam.

I have no idea why but I was fascinated by the size of the drill bits in the machine shop.

Lots of gauges to monitor the boiler.

These are the stairs that take you between decks.  I can't believe I actually went up and down them.  Walt and I decided we weren't going to sign up for a stint working on a steamship.

They have a whole room full of colorful, educational interactive displays for children.

Playthings for big kids too.

There is a wetlands area complete with red-winged blackbird nests.

This one yelled at me to not come so close.

Interesting new to me plant life.

My favorites were the birds and animals like these cute little river otters. They put on quite a swimming show.

The blue heron was doing a little fishing. 

Spotted in the river was a muskrat.

I spent several minutes watching her.  Not Walt, he kept on walking, he does not like any kind of rodent.  I hadn't seen one since I was a 5 or 6 year old watching them on the Musselshell River in Montana.  

A very good day was spent exploring the history, the commerce, the wildlife, the steamboats, and life along the Mississippi River. If you are in Dubuque it is a must see. 

One afternoon a cross over the bridge into Illinois brought us to the pretty little town of Galena.

What a busy downtown it is.  

A first pass through found NO parking space so we ventured further out.

We found the Belvedere Mansion.  It is Galena's largest mansion.  It is of Italianate design built in 1857.  That bright white paint is getting some spiffing up. 

Galena is a spot where many wealthy Chicagoans have vacation homes.

This is the home that Ulysses S Grant (18th President) lived in in Galena.  In 1865 when he returned to Galena as a Civil War hero he was given this house as a gift from the citizens of Galena.  Following his election as president in 1868 he visited only occasionally and made his final visit in 1880 5 years prior to his death in 1885. 

 

The house sits high on a hill with views into downtown.

In front of the house a statue of Julia Dent Grant was placed in 2006.  She was the first lady to be called "First Lady," they say that she brought graciousness back to the White House after the Civil War,  she was the first wife of a president to write her memoirs and she supported women's rights.  (The locals weren't too happy about it.  They say it looks like the Mrs. Butterworth syrup bottle.)

Back across the Galena River for another try for a parking space downtown.

Success!  I had a wonderful time wandering in an out of the unique shops and Walt enjoyed sitting on the benches and conversing with the other husbands doing the same thing.

85% of the structures in downtown Galena are listed on the National Register of Historic Places.  

Many fun looking places to eat.

Too bad we had lunch before we came.

There is always room for dessert.  Myrtle's Pies.........now run by grandson David who started baking pies at 16.   He makes about 150 different kind of pies.  I had Cherry Rhubarb and Walt had Caramel Apple and we declared them scrumptious.

It is a welcoming Main Street like a step back in time. 

 

On our way back to GypsyII we went through a rainstorm that was capped off by a rainbow.  There have been frequent thunderstorms during out two week stay but they haven't interfered with any of our activities.

That is until tonight.  Our last night.  Under tornado warning for hours.  I can tell you I was very scared.  The wind and the rain were so loud on our tin can.  Several touch downs near by.  We headed to the RV Park barn that has a basement. This is what the kids do when they have to wait it out in the basement.  The adults just visited. 

It is over!  The storm has moved on.  

The corn is still standing tall.  All is well. 










 

We Could Be Accused Of Being Easily Amused

This has been a delightful two week stay.  We have found something interesting, educational, scenic or just plain fun every day.  We have crossed this bridge over the Mississippi between Wisconsin and Iowa too many times to count.

This one between Iowa and Illinois only once but what a great day that was.

Drives along the Mississippi are beautiful.

 Drives through the farm fields have us saying over and over how green and clean they are.

On Father's Day I wanted to take Walt somewhere special to eat.

The RV Park owners had told us about Breitbach's and it sounded like the perfect place.

 It is in Balltown, IA and the drive there offers great views of the Mississippi River valley.

Breitbach's opened in 1852 by federal permit issued from President Millard Fillmore.  Jacob Breitbach worked for the original owner and purchased the tavern in 1862.

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It is very popular and there was quite a wait.  The Restaurant is now in the 6th generation of Breitbach's.  The original structure was destroyed by fire in 2007.  They rebuilt and that structure was again destroyed by fire in 2008.  The decision to rebuild again was hard but encouraged by the community they did so and the restaurant again opened in 2009. 

They claim that is the only restaurant that has been visited both by Jesse James and Brooke Shields. (Not at the same time!) Now Walt says that they can add his name to the hall of fame visitors. Definite home cooking menu that they say is made from scratch.  Well worth the visit.

Walt had a return route in mind.

That route involved back roads.

And that road came to an abrupt end on the bank of the Mississippi.

Hmmm look what showed up on the bank.  Looks like we can get across.

The Pride of Cassville Car Ferry served the early settlement as far back as 1833 and it continues today, making the same trip back and forth across the mighty Mississippi.

We are soon loaded on and making our way toward the Wisconsin side.

It is taking us from Turkey River, IA to Cassville WI.  The route is not straight across. From the Iowa side it is about 1 mile downriver to the Wisconsin side.

Cassville is located dead center in the longest unbridged section of the Mississippi River, with thirty miles at least in each direction to the nearest bridge.

Idyllic scenes as we travel back to GypsyII.  Wisconsin's license plates declare America's Dairyland.

Another drive took us to Dickeyville, IA.  On the grounds of Holy Ghost Catholic Church is The Grotto.

In the early 1900's a priest and pastor, Father Matthias Wernerus, set himself to the design and construction of intricate mosaic encrusted structures.

A back road drive took us to Shullsburg, WI.

This is proof that we are easily amused.  This is Gravity Hill.  Looks like it is going uphill right?  Put your car in neutral and you will roll up.  

There is more to Shullsburg than hills that let you roll uphill.

Charming shops.

It is home to The Burg where they make these amazing  appetizers of local Shullsburg Creamery mozzarella cheese in lightly seasoned egg roll wrappers that are  fried to a golden brown.  Delicious!

They even have Gravity Hill cheese.

It's Wisconsin.  Look at the booty we came home with.

Another day took us to the Shot Tower.  It is one of the last remaining shot towers in the U.S.  It stands 120 feet 5 inches tall.  The tower was built in 1856 to provide lead shot for the military.  The process fascinated me.  To make the shot, molten lead was poured through copper sieves at the top of the tower. The droplets that fell from the sieves were of relatively uniform size, and the fall provided enough time for the liquid-metal droplet to form into a sphere before landing in the water below. The water cooled the lead to its solid state, retaining the spherical shape.  

How on earth did someone figure out that process?  I did some research and found out that the process was invented by an English plumber, William Watts of Bristol, UK, and patented in 1782.  He noted that raindrops as they fall become spherical.  He surmised that this would happen to lead too if it was heated to liquid and had far enough to fall. He made the first shot tower by adding floor after floor to his house.  I wonder what his neighbors thought.

This was a "must see" for me.  Not only was it an interesting place.  It was another way to work on my fear of heights.

The upper station has a panoramic view of Dubuque and the Mississippi.  This is the bridge that leads to Illinois.  We were treated to more steeple sightings too.

Nice view of the Marina.

The Dubuque County Courthouse and the green bridge on the right that goes to Wisconsin. 


A few more glimpses of steeples.

Here's what we came for.  The Fenelon Place Elevator is a narrow gauge funicular railway.  

It has been described as the world's steepest, shortest, scenic railway.  It is 296 feet in length taking passengers from below on 4th street to Fenelon Place above.  It has a long history of being originally built for personal use because a business man didn't want to make the half hour horse and buggy trip around and up the bluff to and from work.  Then after a fire destroyed it he had it rebuilt and charged his neighbors for them using it.  After another fire destroyed it  ( just like the restaurant) due to a recession he could not afford to rebuild so his neighbors banded together and formed the Fenelon Place Elevator Company and rebuilt it.  Another fire in 1962 finally led to it being rebuilt completely and today it is a draw for people like us. 

 I happily climbed on and rode down looking out the window all the way.  I know, I know......no big deal for most but when you have a fear of any kind of height this is an accomplishment.  

Once down there are cute little shops in restored buildings to see.

A huge old home now made into an Inn.

A ride back up with my eyes wide open.  Old technology in action - the cables - the bells - old wooden rollers.  Yes, we are easily amused but to me this was really fun.  Almost as good as the Tilt-A-Whirl at the fair.  All this and there is more to come.

Our Eyes Were Locked On The Zebulon Pike Lock And Dam

I had heard that Eagle Point Park in Clinton, IA had great views of the Mississippi River and the locks and dam.

The park is lovely and the views are incredible.

Our timing was perfect.  As we climbed to the bluff edge a barge was approaching the lock.  We assume it was filled with grain. This lock is the Zebulon Pike Lock and Dam No 11 ( of a series of 29 on the Mississippi) and  opened on September 10, 1937.  

That lock looks too narrow for that huge barge to fit into.

Push, Push little tug to get that huge barge as close to the side as possible.

Good job little tug.  It looks like it is going to fit.

The Brooke McKenzie gets the barge in the lock as far as she can.

Slowly slowly the barge moves through the lock.

The tugboat (I think these should be called push boats) can't go into the lock at the same time so it is disconnected.  This is one job that I am not sure can be replaced by a robot.  Lots of strength needed because of the danger.  Near each lock and dam the water is turbulent and dangerous. Currents are strong, swift, and deceptive. As water is drawn in and discharged from a lock chamber or drawn over a dam, undercurrents are created that are powerful enough to drag a boat and its occupants to the bottom. 

  

The lock closes behind the barge. By 1918 navigation on the Mississippi River between St. Paul and St Louis was virtually non existent.  In the 1930s, the United States Army Corps of Engineers built a series of locks and dams on the Mississippi River to maintain a navigational channel of at least nine feet in depth. 

The barge moves through the lock and the front gates are opened.  Once a boat is in the lock, water is added to the chamber to raise a boat to the upstream pool or released from the chamber to lower a boat to the downstream pool.

The barge proceeds slowly through the lock.   River travel provides economical bulk transportation for commodities.  I love it because it means less trucks on the road.  

The barge is out and the gates are closing.  The main lock is 110 feet wide by 600 feet long.  

Now it is Brooke McKenzie's turn.  The gates are open and in she goes. 

Since she has her own power she moves through much faster.  

The gates open and she moves through.

The tug is hooked up again to the barge.   That job is hard work.

There they go.  This was a perfectly choreographed process that took about 2 hours.  From what we have learned it is likely that this grain will end up in China.

How fortunate we are to be able to have the time to see this interesting form of transportation.  The view from the park was awesome  on a warm partly cloudy day.

 

We explored around Eagle Point Park a bit.  It is 164 acres of green.

Breathtaking views of the Mississippi.

The Civilian Conservation Corps built many of the structures in the park.

We saw many events taking place in the park......graduation parties, birthday parties, family reunions, and even a wedding.  A real jewel for the city of Dubuque, Iowa.

We spent some time after our trip to the dam and lock wandering through Dubuque. The city of Dubuque has  a population of around 60,000.  The area it is in is known as the Tri-State area because it is at the junction where Iowa, Wisconsin and Illinois meet.

The building that dominates Dubuque's skyline is the Dubuque County Courthouse.

It's gold leafed dome shines even on a cloudy day.

I have named Dubuque the City of Steeples.  

From one spot I could count over a dozen.

They are all shapes and sizes.

They are made of so many different building materials.

Dubuque has a rich religious heritage and beautiful architecture.

Even the clock in the downtown square has a steeple like look.

We are enjoying our two week stay in this green part of the USA.  Many rain showers keep the corn growing and the grass growing for mowing.

 

 

Two Weeks At The Rustic Barn

A last view of Saylorville Lake and it was east to Wisconsin.  Just barely into Wisconsin, right across the mighty Mississippi from Dubuque, Iowa.

 

I admit that when I have thought of Iowa before actually coming here I thought it was miles and miles of corn in flat fields.  How wrong I was. It is miles and miles of fields of corn but the fields are not flat.  They are on rolling hills and while some of the fields are huge they are also tucked into every nook and cranny of the landscape. 

 

So many of these red-shouldered corn sitters.  (Per Kevin and Kimberly) Yes, actually they are red-winged blackbirds.  

Plotting our route with travel days of around 200 miles seems to work well.  I often like to find places that are a little less touristy and give us some downtime to get to know the area and the people.  We have been so fortunate so far that the places we have gone and the RV Parks that we have stayed in have been great.  I rely on reviews from other RVer's and blogs I follow so have a little idea of what to expect. 

Suffice it to say this time we really scored at the Rustic Barn RV Campground.  This is the view out our door.  Right in the middle of farm land.

What picture perfect farms they are.

The corn field behind us was not as high as the fence the day we arrived.  I really feel like I am watching the corn grow.  Just a few days later and it is well above the fence.  

There is a pretty little chapel on the grounds. The owners are the nicest people and make sure that everyone is well taken care of. They give great suggestions of places to go and things to do. 

The grounds are filled with trees, bushes and flowers and so well maintained.  Yes, we are happy campers.  Oh, and did I mention that the lightening shows we get are dazzling and the flickering fireflies are magical. 

 

Our first outing took us back across the mighty Mississippi into Iowa.

Our favorite..........back roads.  This one is through corn fields and groves of trees.

Here we are.  This is exciting.  The location is not highly publicized and if the RV Park owner had not told us about it we would have missed it.

The owners keep it just like it was in the movie.

The only difference we could see is that the corn was not as high.  When they were filming the movie the corn wasn't growing as fast as they needed because it had not rained as much as usual.  So the filmmakers got special permission to dam up a nearby water source and water the field so that they would get the needed moisture to allow it to grow.  Success........it was perfect. 

The farm has been in the Lansing family for over 100 years. 

There is no charge to visit the ball field but if you want a tour of the inside of the house there is a fee for that.  

These two young men had a race around the bases.  They both started at home base and went opposite directions. 

Baseball lovers come out to toss the ball around on the field.

Once a year in the fall they have an event called The Team Of Dreams that celebrated stars of all-time greats emerge from the corn and play each other under the lights on the movie set.  Some of this years players are Wade Boggs, Andre Dawson, Reggie Jackson, Ozzie Smith, Mark Grace and Vince Coleman.  Sorry Walt.  We will be too far to the east.

What a great step back in time for us.

The Field of Dreams is near the town of Dyersville, Iowa.  It is a small town of about 4000 and home to The Basilica of St. Francis Xavier.   We had lunch there at The Palace that is supposed to have the BEST hamburgers.  Good...... but they didn't hold a candle to Sparky's in Hatch, NM.

Back over the mighty Mississippi to Wisconsin and the Rustic Barn.  

As the sun sets on another fabulous day we marvel at our good fortune to be able to continue our travels across this amazing country.  To be continued........

 

The Iowa Capitol Is Magnificent

Leaving Nebraska we traveled to Bob Shetler Corps of Engineers Park near Des Moines, IA.

GypsyII is parked right below this grassy slope that is the back side of the dam that holds Saylorville Lake.

We were very near the spillway that roars down the Des Moines River.  A very nice campground that we really enjoyed.  Not sure how long it would take for us to get acclimated to the heat combined with the humidity.  We are feeling sticky.

There is GypsyII nestled among the trees.  Our reason for visiting Des Moines is two fold.  Seeing the Iowa Captiol and visiting with friend, Marilyn Nemmers, whom I worked with at Hewlett-Packard.  She retired and moved to Iowa to be near family. She took us to lunch at an upscale restaurant named Greenbrier's in Johnston, IA.  What a treat.  A special dining experience and a perfect spot to catch up on what Marilyn has been doing since we last saw each other.  After lunch we went to her pretty apartment that seemed like a very relaxing sanctuary and she treated us to sorbet and cookies.  How fortunate we are to be able to visit old friends along our routes.

 I liked how downtown Des Moines was a mixture of old and new and seemed clean and cared for.

The Polk County Courthouse was huge, stately and very pretty.

As we parked to visit the Capitol we saw this pretty building on a hill across the way.  Turns out it is the Iowa Supreme Court 
Building.  There is a chamber for the Supreme Court in the Capitol but most activities take place in this building.

The Iowa State Capitol stands atop a hill and I never got far enough downhill to get a complete exterior photo.  A $10 million repair project has begun on the golden dome and won't be completed until 2018.

The building was constructed between 1871 and 1886, and is the only five-domed capitol in the country. The four corner domes clad in green are said to resemble ears of corn in the husk and the gold central dome is husked and showing shining golden kernels.  Appropriate for a state that seems to be the Corn Capital of the World.

The exterior is stone and brick and much of the stone is Iowa stone.  The limestone came from Iowa, Missouri, Minnesota, Ohio and Illinois.  The main part of the building is buff colored sandstone quarried from the banks of the Mississippi River in Missouri. 

This was the first Capitol that we have visited that required we go through security to enter. But one look and I knew this was a Capitol I was going to understand.

Twelve statues, high within the rotunda, beginning north of the library door, represent History, Science, Law, Fame, Literature, Industry, Peace, Commerce, Agriculture, Victory, Truth, and Progress.

Looking up at the dome from the ground floor.

Another showing the marble columns that appear to be holding up the dome.  Dazzling to the eye. 

Looking up to the second floor balcony.  I am in awe of the beauty surrounding me everywhere I look.

The grand staircase from below.

The grand staircase from above.

Confession time.  I opened a small, inconspicuous door that led me to a winding staircase.  I couldn't resist. Up I went.

It led me to the gallery above the House of Representatives. 

I had an eye level view of the beautifully decorated ceiling and light fixtures.

I circled around to find the gallery for the Senate. 

Another gorgeous ceiling and sparkly light fixtures.

I have been charmed by all the details and features so far but at this point little did I know the best was yet to come.

The Library!

I was almost giddy when I saw the staircases.  I sighed with contentment.  This place is perfect.  Beauty and books.  What more could I ask?  Do they take volunteers?  Would I be allowed to stay? 

Four stories of books, each story enclosed by ornate cast iron balconies.

This is one of the biggest libraries in the United States and home to more than 100,000 volumes.

The Library provides Iowa lawmakers, government employees, the Iowa legal community and the general public with a highly specialized legal collection of treatises and both state and federal statutory, regulatory and case law.  I suppose most of it is online now but if I were anyone in the legal community in Iowa I would still choose to go to this Library. 

I ventured as high as the second floor on that winding staircase.  Thoughts of all the hands that have worn the paint away from the railing in search of the much needed book.

True architectural beauty!  The library is finished in beautiful ash and chestnut with marble wainscoting. Much mention is made of the Encaustic tile floor.  I didn't know what that meant so I had to look it up.  Encaustic tiles are ceramic tiles in which the pattern or figure on the surface is not a product of the glaze but of different colors of clay.  Much more artistic moulding process and the great thing is as the tile is worn down there is no loss of pattern.  

Who knew the magic I would find behind the doors simply marked Library. Iowa’s State Law Library was named by the Architecture and Design website as one of the 45 most majestic libraries in the world, and the magnificent architecture really is awe-inspiring.  It ranks high as one of my most favorite places.  

This beautiful building shows the love and pride that Iowan's have for their state.  So glad that we were able to tour it.  Wow is all I can say.  

 

Do You Not Understand The State If You Don't Understand It's Capitol?

As often as our route takes us near a State Capitol we stop and visit.

The Nebraska State Capitol is located in Lincoln.

Being in Lincoln it is only appropriate that they have a monument of Abraham Lincoln.  It is an 8.67 foot bronze statue on the west grounds.

The Nebraska State Capitol is often known as the "Tower on the Plains," and its 400-foot tower can be seen as far away as 20 miles.

It took from 1922 to 1932 to construct out of Indiana Limestone. 

The interior of the Capitol is also stone and a great deal of brick.  We entered on the ground floor and I felt like I had entered a Monastery's wine cellar.

It was suggested that first we take the elevator to the 14th floor viewing deck.

 

Now I am no longer in a wine cellar.  I am in a prison cell.

It did give us a great view of the Navigator as he patiently waited for us.  Love that snazzy red jeep.

We also got a birds eye view of "The Protecting Hand" sculpture that was originally done for Woodmen Accident and Life (Now Assurity Life Insurance).  It is the subject of an Urban Legend in Lincoln.  The art was installed in 1955  and some people swear that originally the family had no clothes on.  Some people still refuse to believe that the drapery type clothes were part of the original.  Like many legends, there is an element of truth to it.  The artist’s original model showed all the figures entirely nude, but he was asked to modify it before creating the full-sized version on the building.

From the 14th floor we came down to the main floors and strolled around.

There were very few photos taken because this edifice is not photogenic.  It is dark, heavy, and absolutely baffling to me. It made me feel as if it was making a statement that it has dominion over the prairie.  

I am sure it has a great story to tell but just like some authors that don't pull me in I wasn't pulled in to this architecture. 

I am sure it exemplifies the states traditions and history of solidity and the nature of the plains.  I tried reading the representations but it would have been like reading War and Peace.  Where are the cliff notes? 

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Nebraska is the only state in the nation that has a unicameral legislature.  In the normal two house legislature, each house passes its own version of a bill, and the the differences are worked out in a conference committee. Nebraska has only one house so no conference committees and they claim it is more open and efficient. They claim their house is non-partisan and their senators are supposed to forget their political party affiliation.   

One thing that I did understand and think that Nebraska got absolutely right is that their Governor's mansion is right across the street from the Capitol. 

 Towering and solid it is.  Definitely not like other Capitol's we have visited.

Lincoln seems like a nice city.  They have a Public Arts Program called Nebraska by Heart.  This one is called Heart of the Field.

We had a very nice lunch at Leadbelly in the Haymarket District. 

Then to end the day on a sweet note a stop at Licorice International.  We love black licorice!  Have you ever tried salted licorice? Zout from Holland is the best. 
 

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New Mexico To Colorado To Kansas To Nebraska

Leaving Albuquerque we continued the trek north and east under cloudy skies. 

 

Just before Raton we saw the billboard that has been creating quite a bit of controversy.  The locals seem to think it is just fine considering their close proximity to Colorado where marijuana is legal but McDonald's says the billboard "does not meet our standards and is being taken down."

We had originally thought we would spend the night in Raton but Charlotte had told us about a park on the top of Raton Pass so since it was fairly early we kept on going.  Glad we did......this is the view out of our back window.  

The next morning our north and east route took us through a corner of Colorado. 

And on through a corner of Kansas. 

The fields are green and the buildings are farm related.  

 

The highways follow the railroad tracks in this country.

There are miles and miles of this as we travel along.

The green is broken now and then with a fixer upper.

 Our stop this night was in Oakley, Kansas at High Plains RV.  Our view from Gypsy was out to the High Plains.   

Our next stop was in Greenwood, Nebraska at Pine Grove RV Park that is halfway between Omaha and Lincoln.  Our first day of exploration was in Omaha.  

I had heard about the unique and charming ways that they had redone the Old Market area so that was our first stop.  Notice it still has its old cobblestone streets. 

 The restored old buildings in the Marketplace were originally warehouses and wholesale and retail grocery and produce suppliers to the city of Omaha and beyond.  They are now home to shops, restaurants, bars,  and art galleries.

Most of the buildings are brick with some stone and metal trim.

One of the most beautiful places in the Old Market used to be nothing more than an alley between two buildings. 

Add a skylight and lots of beautiful plants, and you have the Passageway.

The old brickwork is so pretty.  If those walls could talk.

It is 3 levels of art galleries, restaurants, shops and offices.

Apparently it has become such a popular place for Senior Pictures that they have had to post hours that they can be taken along with warnings to not move the plants or art work. 

A beautiful combination of history and beauty.  Delightful time spent there and if you are ever in Omaha stop for lunch in the Old Market at Wheatfields Bakery.  Our food was delicious and the only problem was as each order was brought out to the neighboring tables we wished we could have some of each as well.  They have lots of pastries, cookies, muffins,  breads, cakes, pies, and specialty desserts to choose from as you leave.  We brought home cinnamon swirl bread.

On our way to our next destination we were able to catch a glimpse of the stadium where the College World Series of Baseball is played each year.  We were just a few days too early for the games.

Our next destination was the Bob Kerrey Pedestrian Bridge.

This stunning 3000 foot walking bridge crosses the Missouri River between Nebraska and Iowa. 

Even though I am usually fearful of heights I felt very safe on this bridge.  The construction was amazing.

Lots of activities go on on the shoreline.  There are vast networks of paved trails for walking and biking.

The bridge opened on September 28, 2008, and is named after the Nebraska Senator who secured funding for the project, Senator Bob Kerrey.

It is an S-Curved Cable bridge with quite a modern design.  

We walked the entire length from Nebraska to the Iowa side.

It is marked in the middle so you can stand in two states at once.  The bridge is the first ever pedestrian bridge to connect two states.

We walked the Bob so we are official marathoners!

While on the bridge we talked to a group of local people who told us that we shouldn't miss this candy factory that was close to where our RV park was.  They weren't wrong.  Melt in your mouth chocolates.  Another amazing day for us this time in the midwest. 

 

The Painted Desert And Petrified Forest

A few miles from the RV Park is The Painted Desert and Petrified Forest National Park.

Immediately we thought it felt familiar.  Yes, it was very much like Paria, Utah outside of Kanab.

We loved the landscape then and we love it now.

There is a difference though.  The Paria area is fairly small but this area is huge.  It extends over 7500 square miles across northeastern Arizona.

 

We do realize that not everyone sees the merits of this kind of terrain.  Just as "One man's trash is another's treasure" one man's ugly is another's beauty.

For example, before we left Arizona I went to the dentist to have my teeth cleaned.  The hygienist knows we travel so she asked where we were headed.  I told her the east coast.  Then she asked where we had been recently.  I told her New Mexico and Monument Valley.  She said she was sorry we had to be in such ugly places but that she hoped our trip to the east would be better.  

 The multitude of colors ranging from lavenders to shades of gray with vibrant colors of red, orange and pink and frosty white to me is a splendid landscape.

The old Painted Desert Inn, a Route 66 landmark during the 1920s and 1930s  was converted into a museum and bookstore after the Park Service took it over in the 1960s.  It is perched on a plateau overlooking the spectacularly colored Painted Desert that stretches off toward the northern horizon.  It must have been a wonderful place to stay. 
 

Ancient Indian tribes once wandered this area and made it their home.  The Puerco Pueblo is a 100+ room ruin that once housed up to 200 people. The rooms were living quarters and storage, but most activity, like cooking and craftmaking, took place in the plaza in the middle.

There are Petroglyphs to be seen at Newspaper Rock and always interesting to me are the Solar Marker rocks.  Throughout the Southwest, some petroglyphs and pictographs have been found to mark astronomical events during the year, such as the summer solstice, winter solstice, and both spring and fall equinoxes. The rocks above at Puerco Pueblo mark the Summer Solstice. For about two weeks around June 21, an interaction of light and shadow passes across the rings of a small, circular design as the sun rises.  I love June 21st every year.  The longest day of the year.........the longer the light the better.

Soon we were seeing Petrified Wood.  Apparently it comes as a disappointment to some who expect the trees still to be standing in thick rocky groves instead of lying flat in sections as they are.  The one laying on top of the hill was huge and intact.

 

Hard to wrap my head around the fact that about 225 million years ago these petrified trees were flourishing living plants and that this area was humid and sub-tropical.  What a difference 225 million years makes.

There are many fossils in the park including the trees as well as other plants and animals.

 

You may notice the difference of sky in the photos.  One direction the sky was blue with white puffy clouds, the other direction grey rain threatening blurs.  Luckily the grey passed over us and for awhile we enjoyed a rainfall and that perfume that only rainfall in the desert can give. 
 

It took millions upon millions of years for nature to create this natural canvas that could be described as a multi-colored layered cake accompanied by caramel log candy. 

We are thankful for another great day.  Continuing east we spent a couple days in Albuquerque playing Canasta with Joyce and Paul and being treated to their hospitality and delicious meals.  For the record Joyce and I actually won a couple games.  We are improving!

A Graduation And The Start Of Our East Coast Trip

Grandson Logan's graduation was at Arizona State University.

454 Mesquite High School graduates and Logan is in the top 10%.

Logan with Mom (Cynthia) Dad (Scott) and big sister Brianna.   Very proud of this young man.

Logan (in middle) has been fortunate to have good friends.  He will be serving a mission in Eugene, OR before attending college.

 Younger sister, Lyndsee, with new puppy Kiwi.  Pretty cute pair. 

Kiwi showing our kitty who is in charge.  

Logan also received his Eagle Scout Award.  Here with his cousin, Isaac, who received his Eagle Scout Award earlier.

Little sisters showed their support at the Eagle Award Ceremony.  Samantha on left (Isaac's sister) & Lyndsee on right (Logan's sister).

We had such a nice visit with the family.  And the food.....oh the food.  We went to PF Chang's for dinner after graduation, love that Pad Thai.  The next night Cynthia and Scott had a Bar B Q for the family and I usually don't like ice cream but that ice cream cake was delicious.  Kimberly made a Salmon dinner for us one night......we love Salmon.  Cynthia and Scott took us to brunch at Gecko Grill.....not only was the food yummy we sat outside on their gorgeous patio.  One evening we went to YC's Mongolian Barbeque with Rob, Kristi & Brooke and came out VERY full.   You could say we ate ourselves through our visit.

Lyndsee and her friend Mia are playing beach volleyball and we got to go to one of their tournaments.  That was fun.  We enjoyed our visit but the HEAT is on........living in GypsyII is like living in a tin can so the heat takes a toll.  Time to get the wheels rolling on our East Coast Adventure.

Update on this traveling cat.  To say I am smitten would be an understatement.  I have really enjoyed having him along. He is fun to watch and has adapted to living in GypsyII really well.  He does protest on travel days (we put him in his carrier in the car) by meowing his displeasure but seems to have figured out it is futile so each trip it is less and less and more sleeping takes place. 

 THE LONG LONG TRIP BEGINS

It was a soon to be hot day when we left Mesa.  Last view of a saguaro for many a moon. 

Traveling north on AZ 87 it isn't long and we are in the Tonto National Forest.  The temperature has dropped considerably. Nice.

Through Payson and on to the first stop at Holbrook.  We try to keep our traveling miles at around 200 and then stay at least 2 or 3 days at each stop.  Sometimes on this trip we will be staying 2 weeks at a stop.  It is amazing to me that at every 200 mile stop there is something interesting to see. 

I was excited to see threatening rain clouds.  Wonderfully their promise was fulfilled and we had rain showers in the afternoons.

We settled in to OK RV Park next to this RV that made us smile at the greeting we were given.  Nice new owners trying to make it a better park and a family enterprise. Good value for the Passport price of $20 but not at the full price of $40 level yet.  

 We took a drive through Holbrook.  It was a wild and wooly cow town in the late 1800's & early 1900's but when Route 66 came through tourism took over.  Some of that kitschy quirky Americana is still alive in Holbrook.

The most iconic place in town has to be the Wigwam Motel.

I can remember coming through Holbrook in the 50's when it was new and my Dad stopping so we could take a look.  

It has been in the same family since it opened in 1950.  It closed in 1974 when interstate 40 bypassed Holbrook but in 1986 the original owners three children renovated it and reopened. 

In our favorite animated movie "Cars" the neon-lit motel that is in it is clearly inspired by Wigwam Motel.

The wigwams are made out of concrete and steel complete with a bathroom.

With an afternoon rain shower our first day on our long, long trip was a great way to start.

Sedona Is Calling

 Heading away from Monument Valley it wasn't long before colors started to change.

The blazing reds and oranges are gone. 

The color palette leans towards pastels.

These two sentinels stood guard right along the road.

We flew past the snow covered mountains and the town of Flagstaff.

   Oh Sedona and your red rocks.....here we are. We parked GypsyII in a new to us campground that we really liked.  Distant Drums in Camp Verde.   Close to Sedona and other places we like and their hot tub is great.  We are putting it on our list for a possible month stay in the future.

 

 Coming to Sedona is like coming home.  When we moved to Arizona in 2008 we started going to Sedona often, loving how beautiful it is and how much cooler it is than in the Phoenix valley.

 Since our stay was pretty short we drove through Oak Creek canyon right away.  It is a not to be missed place for us.

TLAQUEPAQUE..........How do you say it?

 Tuh-lah-keh-pah-keh is about as close as I can get.

 What does it mean?  It means that it is a shopping center that Walt will go to with me with no complaints.

Well truthfully it is a city in Mexico.  

This frog and I have been friends for years.  I am confident that that kiss he is blowing is for me. 

 Tlaquepaque was the dream of Abe Miller, a successful Nevada businessman.

He was a world traveler and he loved Mexico and Sedona. 

It struck him that Sedona was a natural location for a living arts community…a village where artisans create in full view of visitors and live on-site as well. It worked in Mexico; it could work here. He called it Tlaquepaque after a colorful Mexican city on the outskirts of Guadalajara by the same name.

The unconventional approaches to architecture and building at Tlaquepaque resulted in a fascinating coming together of tradition and innovation.

Mr. Miller made a promise to the people that he bought the property from that he would save the beautiful sycamore grove that grew there so many of the structures were built around the sycamores. 

So many works of art, inside and outside.  Mark Twain is a favorite of mine. 

Construction began in 1971 but wasn't finished until 1978 but it gives the impression it has been around for centuries.

As we were leaving we noticed Tlaquepaque North has been completed.  Can't wait until next time to visit. 

Our visit to Sedona wouldn't be complete without a stop at Wildflower Bread.   We love their food. 

The food is good but this view can't be beat.  

Time to head down to the valley.  Family events to come.

Valley Of The Gods.........This Land Is Our Land

A chance comment ("If you are at Monument Valley take a short trip to Valley of the Gods.  You won't regret it.") had us on the road the next morning after our Monument Valley tour.

To get there we head toward Utah on Highway 163 crossing the San Juan River at Mexican Hat.

Here is the reason Mexican Hat is named Mexican Hat.  Hmmmmm....maybe it should have been Sombrero.

The colors on the mountain behind the formation look as if they are straight from an artists brush.

We were headed toward the unknown.  We found we had different expectations.  Walt thought it was probably like a state park with an entry station and vending machines.  I thought it was a short drive in to a scenic overview and a return on the same road.

Before the turn off we did get a hint of what the views might be like. 

Neither one of our expectations were met.  They were exceeded.  A 17 mile rough sand and gravel loop with no facilities, gas stations, stores or services, and mile after mile of scenic views. 

This land is managed by the BLM so it is our land.   

With no map or preconceived notions we felt free to name the formations ourselves.  Walt declared this a Viking ship.

Feel free to give them names as we go along.  I did later find that the BLM has a map that gives some names to the formations but then found that locals have given them different names.  So I think this is free game to name them ourselves. 

There are massive rocks roadside and layers of colors everywhere.

The road is incredibly rolling and frequently rough.

But despite the road,  dotted here and there were RV's taking advantage of the beauty and remoteness of the area. 

I'm sure climbing is allowed on these sandstone spires.  We named the left one Smokey Bear.  

I named this one Kitty Cat. 

I can see why it was named Valley of the Gods!  It is a masterpiece.

The road winds among the formations and we hardly meet another vehicle.  

I am still amazed that people bring their RV's in over this road.  I guess the relaxing and isolated atmosphere is worth it. 

 

The Valley has been used in movies, TV shows and commercials.  Most notably for a couple of our grandchildren two episodes of Dr. Who.

What do you see?  I see a lady doing her laundry.  Yes, I know........it is a stretch. 

Just like Monument Valley you feel very small next to these soaring rock structures.

The BLM lists this as Lady in the Bathtub.  Right on! 

 

Queen Nefertiti I think.

I loved the green cottonwood tree-lined washes and canyons, the sandstone rocks, hills and ledges in this amazing terrain.

What a place.  Quite a reward for acting upon a chance comment so if you are in Monument Valley take a short trip to Valley of the Gods.  You won't regret it.

The trip back to GypsyII was filled with more great scenery.

Always so excited to see water in the desert.

I had to stop at Mile Marker 13. It is the spot where Forrest Gump quit running.  It was fun to see I was not the only one who waited for a break in cars to run out in the road and snap a shot.  There was even a fellow there getting a video from his drone.

The sun has set upon our time here.  Heading south in the morning.  More to see, more to do. 
 

Monument Valley..........This Land Is Their Land Part 2

A bit more to finish up our Monument Valley tour.  We really enjoyed it and the only regret is that if we had been on our own we would have been free to linger.  But that lingering wouldn't have been able to be in the back country so I think it is a win win to do the tour.

This is Totem Pole.  It has a great backstory.  It was the site of lots of adventure in the 1975 movie The Eiger Sanction starring Clint Eastwood.   In the movie Eastwood did his own stunts and actually climbed this 450 foot high spire.  This marked the last time anyone was allowed to climb the Totem Pole, making Eastwood the last person to scale it legally.  In return for permission to film there, climbers with the production had to remove all of the pitons, which had accumulated from years of climbing, on their way down.  Our guide did say that he is told that part of Eastwood's rope is still up there.  The spire is only about 40 feet across and you may have seen a car on top of it for a commercial and Xerox put a desk with a secretary on top of the Pole's summit as well. The tribe has stayed with the "no climbing" rule although some do it illegally and those caught have suffered consequences.

No wonder this area has been the location for so many movies.   Everywhere you turn there is another perfect scene. 

The dunes by Sand Springs look like they would be a great place to roll down..............providing you could get to the top.

The tricky part is taking photos as we bump along.  There were lots of stops but every inch was a Kodak moment.  There were many blurry deletes.  Aren't digital cameras wonderful? 

The "white sky" had gone but now the shadows were lengthening.  Uh oh, we are on the downhill side of the day.

Monument Valley is full of dramatic cliffs and many form box canyons that remind me of descriptions in a Zane Grey novel.

This is the North Window.  It is a gap between the edges of Elephant Butte and Cly Butte which frames East Mitten Butte, 3 miles to the north.  It seems it would be best photoed in the morning.

Time to turn around in my seat and say "farewell" to this magnificent Valley.  Monument Valley is considered the sacred heart of the Navajo Nation and to me it could be the heart and soul of the American West.  A magical, mystical, spiritual experience on a rocky, dusty road with Walt who did not have to drive was pretty special. It will be a place that will stand out in my memory.  

“Monument Valley is the place where God put the West.”

                                                                                                       ~ John Wayne

"Elsewhere the sky is the roof of the world, but here the earth was the floor of the sky." –Willa Cather on Monument Valley

Monument Valley------This Land Is Their Land

Time for our tour.  A group of about 10 of us climbed in for the ride of our life.  Not fancy but oh where those wheels can go. We are off to Navajo land.

Our guide is a young man who is very proud to be a Navajo.  He was raised by his grandmother in the "old ways" and seems to have done a good job of retaining his heritage and living in today's technological advanced world.   This butte is Merrick Butte.  It and Mitchell Butte were named after two miners who came to dig around in the Valley in the 1800s, but were slaughtered by Ute Indians who were in the area also.   There are numerous named formations in the Valley and I may refer to a few but there are too many to try to get them all.  The afternoon was mostly one of those "white sky" kind of days so the photos are not good but the memories are.

The Left and Right Mittens, and Merrick Butte together are the iconic view that represents Monument Valley.  This is what you see in the Western movies, commercials, post cards and any brochures about the Valley. 

 With over 17 million acres, the Navajo Nation encompasses the entire northeast quarter of the state of Arizona, and spills over into New Mexico and Utah.

It didn't take long for me to be overwhelmed.  Not just by the beauty but by the sheer size and the feeling of being "in the wild." And it wasn't long until I was SO grateful we had taken the tour instead of driving ourselves.  That road is rough.  The formation above is The Three Sisters.

Our guide told us that the Anasazi lived in the Valley before the Navajo and then just disappeared.  History tells us they abandoned the area in the 1300's.  Our guide said that the Navajo's believe that their "wicked ways" led to their disappearance.  The Navajo's have raised sheep and other livestock, and farmed small quantities of crops in the valley for hundreds of years.

The amazing pinnacles of rock are surrounded by miles of mesas and buttes, shrubs, trees and windblown sand.  

This is John Ford's point complete with Indian on horseback.  This vista was used in many of the movies he directed.  

We saw several horses and asked the guide about them.  He said that some are wild but many are branded and owned by the people in the Valley.

About 100 people live in the Valley.  Conditions are primitive, they have no electricity (some are using solar) and water has to be brought in.  There are several springs we saw that furnish water for the animals. 

Nice to be with a Navajo guide.  We go on private roads.

 

We were able to visit a traditional domed, hexagon shaped hogan.  The hogan is considered a sanctuary for the family. Inside there were two young ladies preparing the wool to be woven into rugs.  It was interesting to hear how long it takes to make even a small rug.  It can take months even for a small one not only because of the perfection of the craft but because the weaver must have a positive attitude while weaving and cannot have bad thoughts.  

The hogan is constructed of logs and the door faces east so the first thing that the family sees in the morning is the rising sun.

After some looping around and rough and tumble roads we arrived at Moccasin Arch.  

It is what is called a pothole arch that has eroded in the sandstone.

I love the formations but my favorite is just looking out into the distance and seeing the red rocks, the red sand, the greenery and the golden grasses.   Exquisitely beautiful. 
 

Another amazing arch.  This one is called Ear of the Wind.   The immensity of it is hard to take in.  See the people on the sand.  They are so tiny in comparison.

Another view of Ear of the Wind. It is also a pothole arch.  Isn't it spectacular?

This is Eye of the Sun.  It is a cave type arch.

Another size perspective.  The Eye of the Sun is way up at the top of this cliff.   Another good reason for the tour.  We wouldn't have been able to see all these arches if we had driven the self-guided route.  They are south of the loop drive. 

Another way to see the Valley.  Walt said he bets the guy in shorts is going to regret that decision.  Horse hair is not soft and silky........and horses sweat.  

The roads were very rough and bumpy.  Some of the hills were steep and the road sandy and the downhills left us careening wildly but we loved it.   Not so one lady on our tour.  She complained, complained, complained.  She stated she was going to put it in their review that it was uncomfortable and may have damaged her back.  Every other vehicle she saw heading into the Valley she yelled at them "Don't do it.....go back."  Our guide was ever the gentleman and was adept at ignoring her.  She must have been living under a rock to have no idea about what to expect.  You can't read anything that doesn't warn you about the roads and the tour goes places that I wouldn't really say would qualify as a road.   So, if you only like the smooth ride of an Acura MDX don't come to Monument Valley. 

But if you love incredible beauty and have a sense of adventure this is the place for you! 

There is more to come.........part 2 soon.