Gypsy & The Navigator

We Crossed The Strait of Juan de Fuca to Victoria, BC

Leaving early in the morning we boarded the MV Coho to cross the Strait of Juan de Fuca on to Victoria BC.

It is a passenger and vehicle ferry owned and operated by the Black Ball Line.   No frills but a comfortable 90 minute ride.

We arrived in Victoria Harbour.  Here they use the Queen's English and I loved finding the differences in pronunciation and spelling.

Victoria Harbour is a harbour, seaport, and seaplane airport.  It serves as a cruise ship and ferry destination for tourists and visitors to the city and Vancouver Island.

As I scanned the shoreline it seemed almost every building was a hotel or condo or apartment building.

Leaving the Coho we needed to make a plan.

I usually have some sort of a plan in mind but today I really didn't.  We had been to the Butchart Gardens when we had a stop here on our Alaska Cruise so that wasn't on the radar.

I knew I wanted to see Fisherman's Wharf and the Parliament Buildings but that wouldn't take up a full day.  This yacht had been docked in Port Angeles a few days ago.  Curious as to the owner.  We couldn't figure out what the flag was and there are no identifying names or marks anywhere.  Aaaah Privacy.  

We could take one of these cute little water taxis.

We could take a carriage ride.

We could just plan a walking route.

Walt made the decision.  A hop on hop off bus that allowed us to see much of the city combined with some walking destinations.

Right in the heart of downtown are the British Columbia Parliament Buildings.   Victoria is the capital city of the province of British Columbia.

On top of the central dome is a gold covered statue of Captain George Vancouver.  Vancouver commanded an expedition charged with exploring the Pacific region.  He was among  Britain's greatest explorers and navigators and named many of the mountains and other features in the Northwest.

A contest was how the designer of the beautiful buildings was chosen.  Amazingly the young man who won, Francis Rattenbury, was only 25 years old.

The grounds around the Parliament building are a perfect place for wedding photos.

 The Empress Hotel is just kitty corner from the Parliament Buildings.

It also was designed by Francis Rattenbury.  It opened in 1908.  This is where Englands Royalty stays when it comes to Victoria.

Landscaping around the hotel is filled with flowers and beautiful trees.  

 
The roses were sheer perfection.  If you want to partake in High Tea the Empress is where to go.  Wish I would have had girls along and I would have gone.  High tea wasn't on Walt's list.  Plus we didn't come dressed appropriately.  

Dress Code

Sophisticated, smart casual.  

And $75 Canadian to take part in the ritual.

 The buildings cultivate an image of genteel civility within its natural setting along the shore.

Much of the architecture is Edwardian. 

We saw very few empty unused buildings on our tour around the city.

It seems to be a bustling little city.

My perception that there are a lot of apartments, condo's and hotels continued as we toured around the city.  Victoria has a Mediterranean climate with mild, rainy winters and cool, dry and sunny summers.  This has made it a desirable retirement area.  The bus driver said that 1/3 of Victoria's population is retired, 1/3 semi-retired because they work for the government (Canada seems to have the same feeling about their government) and the other 1/3 doing the actual work in technology, food products, tourism, and education.

The Oak Bay Beach Hotel that opened in 2012 was built on the site of the original that was built in 1927 and destroyed by fire in 1930 and then an exact replica was rebuilt.  The aged building finally reached the end of its functioning life in 2006 and was torn down for this new one to be built. 

Victoria has a thriving Chinatown.  It is the oldest in Canada and the second oldest in North America after San Francisco's. 
 

Fan Tan Alley through that little red gate is the narrowest street in Canada.   Some places it is only 35 inches wide but it leads to a barber shop, art gallery, Chinese cafe, apartments and offices.

This is the new Johnson Street Bridge. It opened in March 2018 to the tune of $96.08 million (Canada $) 

It replaced the bridge that had been built in 1924.  Massively over budget and years behind schedule the bus driver said it was a major subject of controversy in Victoria. 

Victoria is known as "The Garden City."   The flowers around the city are bright and colorful and they say they bloom year round. Our bus driver said that there are over 1700 of these blooming baskets throughout the city.

Every neighborhood has a park and every park is filled with flowers.

We saw lots of pretty little churches set amid the high rise apartments and condo's. 

The magnificent Christ Church Cathedral has been a work in progress.

Enough was completed in 1929 that they started to use it but building and renovations have continued to this day.  The stained glass is amazing and Prince Charles and Camilla have attended church here.

We passed by The Victoria Golf Club.It was founded in 1893 and is the oldest 18-hole golf course in Canada in its original location and the second oldest in North America.

This is Mile Zero of the Trans-Canada Highway.  It is the longest highway in the world........all  4,860 miles of it.  Almost twice as long as Route 66.

We walked a path along the shore to Fisherman's Wharf.

We had no idea how far we had to go.  The signs were all in kilometers.  Metric challenged.......yes we are.  I know, I know we could have checked it out on our phones but that would have spoiled the fun. 

Lots of pretty views and the path was not too long.

We arrived in good time and ready for some fish and chips and sightseeing.

Yummy crispy fish and chips was at Barb's.

I was transfixed by the houseboats.  No commentary from here on.......just photos of these quirky, unique, eclectic places to live.

These floating homes sell for around $400,000.  Inexpensive for Victoria since the median house price there is over $900,000.

We hopped back on the bus.  This totem pole is the World's tallest totem.

It is 127 ft 7 inches tall.

After a long day it was time to head back to the ferry for the trip back to Port Angeles.  My head was spinning with all the sights we had seen and all the information we had gotten that will hopefully be retained in this old brain for awhile.  

Farewell City Beautiful.


 

Sol Duc Hot Springs And The Hoh Rainforest

The sky was dark and the sun was hidden away on the day we chose to go to Sol Duc Hot Springs

The fine misty rain was warm.

The Sol Duc River runs by the hot springs.

Not  often do you find a National Park with hot springs to soak in.

We do love soaking in hot mineral water.  Grey skies seemed to make it special.  No chance of sunburn today.

There are three mineral hot springs and one freshwater pool at the resort.

The small mineral pool is only inches deep.   The medium-sized mineral pool is 3 feet deep, and its temperature hovers at 104F. The larger mineral fountain pool is 3 feet deep and stays at 101F. 

The large freshwater pool is unheated but the kids didn't seem to care.

A few pleasant hours were spent soaking and basking in the beauty of the area.

The skies cleared some that led to a little exploring on the way back to GypsyII.

We stopped at the Salmon Cascades of the Sol Duc River.

Each fall, salmon return to the rivers and streams of the Olympic Peninsula to migrate upstream to their birth places where they spawn and re-initiate the life cycle process. 

They say that it is the best easily accessible spots to view the salmon run.

While it was too early to see the salmon we were right on time to enjoy the "sparkling waters" which is the name the Quiluete Native Americans gave the river......Sol Duc.

My expectations continue to be exceeded.

Two happy campers returned to GypsyII that night.

 The Olympic National Park is 572 square miles and made up of three different ecosystems. The sub-alpine forest and wildflower meadow, temperate forest, and the rugged Pacific Shore. With so much we have already seen it is hard to believe that there is more to see.  

Every day it seems more and more unfolds before us. 

I am always fascinated by how the trees lean toward each other across the roadway.  It seems that the trees detect light by phototropism that triggers them to bend their branch growth or to grow their main branches on the side with the most exposure to the sun.

Today's adventure is taking us about 90 miles on Highway 101 to the Hoh Rainforest.

There was no rain in the rainforest today.

The day was clear, sunshiny and warm.

Those kinds of days are unusual here.

This area has 140 to 170 inches (or 12 to 14 feet!) of precipitation each year. 

That is a LOT of water.

Compare that to Seattle that has the reputation of being rainy.  Their average rainfall is only about 38 inches.  Phoenix only averages 8 inches per year. 

Even though the day was dry everything we touched was moist.

The frequent fog and mist contributes the equivalent of another 30 inches of rain, resulting in one of the world's lushest rain forests.

The trail we took is called the Hall of Mosses.

The unique ecosystem here has remained unchanged for thousands of years and it is now the most carefully preserved rain forest in the northern hemisphere.

 The trees are covered with huge clumps of hanging moss and ferns.

 Moss is an epiphyte, which is a plant that grows on another plant without harming it.

I felt like nothing really dies in this place.  Anything that appears to die becomes the starting place of more life. 

 Take this scene for example.  The horizontal tree toppled and became the nurse log for more life to begin and now the trees that started as seedlings there are quite large. 

It is like walking through a cathedral that is multiple shades of green.

 Even though there are a few other people on the trail it is amazingly quiet.  Moss is effective at absorbing sound.

There are plenty of places for the trolls to hide.

There is one drawback of not visiting on a rainy day.  No opportunity to see the 10 inch long banana slug.  They are not out and about on dry days.

In this majestic place you can't help but feel your body relax.  At this spot we sat down and I suggested to Walt that we stay there until there was no evidence of another human. 

I am fortunate that he doesn't mind humoring me and we spent a pleasant few minutes enjoying the peace and quiet.

More troll hiding places.

I am sure the gigantic trees, the lush ferns, the hanging mosses, the twisted contorted tree roots, the fallen trees with new life germinating from them will be foremost in my mind for quite awhile.   More exceeding expectations.

Lavender And Beyond

About 20 miles from where we are staying in Port Angeles is the small city of Sequim.

Sequim is pronounced as Skwim.

It is known as "Sunny Sequim" because it lies within the rain shadow of the Olympic Mountains and receives on average less than 16 inches of rain per year.  Just up the road in Port Angeles it is 25 inches per year and we won't talk about on further west yet.

Fogs and cool breezes from the Juan de Fuca Strait make Sequim's climate more humid than would be expected from the low average annual precipitation. 

The city and the surrounding area are particularly known for the commercial cultivation of lavender, supported by the unique climate.

This makes Sequim the "Lavender Capital of North America", rivaled only in France. 

The lavender festival is held each July.

This year it is being held on the weekend we leave the area so we did our lavender exploring in a much quieter way.

We went to the Washington Lavender Farm on the grounds of the George Washington Inn.

The George Washington Inn is a luxury Bed and Breakfast set high on a bluff overlooking the Strait of Juan de Fuca.

It was built as a replica of Mount Vernon the home of George Washington.  Having seen the original Mount Vernon last fall it was fun to see its copy.

Here the view off the veranda is not onto the Potomac but to the ocean.

It sits amid fields and fields of lavender.

The Olympic Mountains on the other side and a scale replica of the wooden North Bridge, of Concord, Mass. make another perfect background.

I understand room rates start at $280 for your stay amid all this beauty.

There is a small shop on the property that sells all things lavender.  I came home with a bottle of lavender oil that a little dab soothes me each night as I head for bed.

The original Mount Vernon did not have these white fences but they seem perfectly appropriate here.

Farewell to a very special place.  Do you think that George Washington ever thought he would have a state named after him along with a replica of his beloved Mount Vernon?

Another day trip took us to Freshwater Bay.

This sea stack is named Bachelor Rock. Not sure why it is named that but I read that out there is a shallow rocky reef that kayakers and divers head to to see all the colorful life that lives on or around the reef.

There is a small boat ramp there and during out visit it was busy with boats both coming and going.

The kayakers were launching from the rocky beach.

A great stop for our picnic lunch before traveling on.

Just a few miles away on a bluff overlooking Salt Creek Recreation area is a very interesting place.

Camp Hayden was A World War II Coastal Artillery Camp established in 1941 that operated through 1948.

This was installed to protect the entrance to Puget Sound, the Victoria BC harbor, and the Canadian naval base at Esquimalt.

The fortified gun emplacement sheltered 16" guns on turntables and several other structures.

Those 16" guns are capable of firing a one ton projectile around 28 miles.  The trees are now very high where the shots would have been directed but it is clear that they would have been able to have done a very good job of protecting this part of the United States. Three Worthington diesels supplied power that allowed soldiers operating the guns to revolve the turntables with a flick of the wrist.   They were test fired only once and thank heavens did not need to actually be used. As we have traveled the United States I have been impressed at the many places we have seen that were there to protect us during World War II.  I wondered if we are as prepared today.

The backroads drive has an ever changing landscape.

Counting Crows........1, 2, 3, 4.

Today was one of the few days that we had a good sighting of Mt. Baker in Alberta and British Columbia, in the Canadian Rockies.

 Our day concluded with a stop along the rocky beach watching the antics of the unlikely shore companions.

 

 

We Went All The Way To Neah Bay....And Beyond

Our day started with a stop at the Joyce General Store just a few miles from our RV Park.  It is a place that seems as if time has stood still.

The town was founded by a man named Joseph M. Joyce and the General Store opened in 1911.

The store is jam packed with everything you could think of.  Their motto is "if we don't have it, then you don't need it."  Hidden behind those Hershey Bars are the Idaho Spud Bars much to Walt's delight.

It is a store, post office, gas station, and meeting place for many residents of this very small town.  

The Joyce General Store is the longest continually operating general store in the entire state of Washington.  They even have a laundromat next door that will be our choice to do laundry next week.

We continued west west west and a bit north on the Strait of Juan de Fuca Highway,  a scenic byway also known as Highway 112. It provides a stunning, meandering drive through the Pacific Northwest.  Some places were like a study in blue.

This is the cutest bait shop I have ever seen.

A stop along the way gave us a history of Highway 112.  It started out as trails between logging and fishing camps.  Eventually the trails widened to accommodate wagons, horses, and then more widening for cars, RV's, logging trucks and school buses.

The pretty little town nestled along the shore is Sekiu.

People flock to Sekiu for the salmon fishing.

Miss Salmon welcomes you.  Her male counterpart dressed in blue shorts and tennies is in town at the cafe.

The highway twists through the forest with blind curves galore breaking out often for ocean views.

 Highway 112 is a narrow and winding road with some surprisingly steep hills and thick woods that block a lot of the view and most of the infrequent traffic is logging trucks.

The Highway is listed as The Whale Trail and try as we might we never saw any indication of whales.  Not a spout in sight.

 Our 60 mile trip to Neah Bay took over 3 hours.  Time to stop for lunch at a beautiful spot right in Neah Bay.

Our luncheon companion was a juvenile bald eagle.  I offered part of my picnic to him but he declined.

 Another 7 mile drive took us as far west as you can go by car.  Cape Flattery.  The trail for our ultimate destination was right there.

To hike this trail you have to buy a $10 permit from the Makah Tribe.  They are good for a year.

Heading gently downhill, the trail narrows down to boardwalk to keep us out of the mud.

Next up tree rounds to help us navigate the tree roots.

A bench with this gorgeous view was where Walt opted out of going further.

He always enjoys visiting with people and this first turnoff will be well supplied with plenty of opportunities for him.

I continued on to the next viewpoint.  From the upper deck there is an expansive view of the turquoise waters below.

From the lower deck you get a more intimate view of the sea caves.

The highlight for me from this spot was watching a cormorant dive into the sea and come up with a very large fish and fly with it into one of the sea caves. 

Moving on...........almost to my destination.

I made it!  After climbing a very steep but short stepladder I made it to the viewing platform.  I am at the furthest northwest tip of the contiguous United States.

Straight ahead is Tatoosh Island. Historically, Tatoosh Island was inhabited seasonally by Makah fishing camps and employees of the United States Coast Guard, Weather Bureau, and Navy.   Today no one lives on the island and if you want to visit it you have to get permission from the Makah tribe.

Cape Flattery Light is on the island and has been there since December 28, 1857.  The lighthouse's light was decommissioned after a 30-foot skeletal structure with a solar-powered beacon fitted with six-year solar pack batteries was built on the island in 2008.

The area is often draped in fog and receives over 100 inches of annual rainfall but look at the clear blue skies and the sunlight glinting off the water while we were there.  We are being smiled upon.

Back to the bench where Walt was and we returned the way we came.

 A perfect day on the Olympic Peninsula, where the Strait of Juan de Fuca joins the Pacific Ocean.

A detour down a side road in Neah Bay brought Walt to a large chunk of Smoked Salmon.   

 

The trip back was a bit quicker with fewer stops.

The views were compelling leading me to say "Stop" to Walt to savor more and more of the beauty.  Just not as often as on the way up.   A truly memorable day reaching "the end of the earth" on the northwest tip of the continental U.S. 

 The next day was the 4th of July.

We celebrated in a most American way.  The small town America way.

We went to a baseball game.  The Port Angeles Lefties are a collegiate woodbat baseball team.  True to their name there are several lefties on the team. 

Their mascot is Timber, a native Olympic marmot.   

Over the fence as the game was finishing up we could see the fireworks that were taking place down at the harbor.

" It will be celebrated...

with pomp and parade...

bonfires and illuminations 

from one end of this continent

to the other."

John Adams

 

 

Hurricane Ridge

The skies were see through blue with only puffy clouds so it seemed a perfect day to go to Hurricane Ridge.  Passing through Port Angeles there is always a boat that catches my eye.

From Port Angeles at an elevation of 32 feet the road to Hurricane Ridge feels almost straight up.

It isn't long and we get a hint at what's to come.

In a few short miles we've come a long way up.  See the road way down there.

Stopping at a view point it is a long long way down to Port Angeles and the shimmering ocean.

We went through three tunnels just barely leaving one before entering the next.

So far the drive has been absolutely stunning with mountains surrounding us in every direction that we look. 

The road climbs a twisting grade showing off views that each seem to be better than the last.

It is a heart stopping sight.  We seem to be at eye level with this.

From 32 feet to 5,242 feet in 17 miles we are transported into another world.

We are in the subalpine zone.  The trees thin out and there are ever-widening expanses of open meadow. 

Isn't it like a scene from Sound of Music?

Brrr it's cold.  Hurricane Ridge is named for its intense gales and winds.

The cold won't stop our hike up to the Ridge.

There were wildflowers in the meadow. 

 This was a new one for me.  A fan-leafed cinquefoil.   It's a member of the rose family.

This  blacktail deer didn't seem to mind that I was so close.

Once up on the ridge you have a panoramic view of the Strait of Juan de Fuca and Canada in the distance.

 

The wind up here bends and twists the trees.
 

Turn around and see the wildflower meadow sitting beneath the snow covered peaks.

So much snow........even in July.

On a scale of 1 to 10 this is definitely a 10.

But how do you rate nature?  I think this place is near perfection.

After our amazing time spent on the mountaintop it was time to head back down.

More deer along the roadside and WAY up on the ridge a herd of mountain goats.  Too far away for photos but exciting to see.

Back through the tunnels.

A last birds eye view of the ocean brings to close our day on the mountain.  A truly magical experience.

 

Drizzly Day Fun And A Hike To Madison Falls

The day started out lightly raining as we headed to the Port Angeles Farmer's Market.

The nasturtiums in the window boxes were happy with the raindrops.

The stars of the show at Farmer's Markets here are the flowers. Bouquets and single stems are available.

And potted plants like these luscious fuchsias.  Not sure if it was because it was rainy there weren't many vendors and even the produce wasn't what was expected and it was very pricy so we didn't buy a thing.

From the Farmer's Market we did some exploring along Port Angeles waterfront.

Even the chain link fences are decorated.

There is always a lot of port activity going on.

This is the Coho Ferry that goes to Victoria BC Canada.  It takes both vehicle and passenger traffic.

It can even accommodate RV's.  Don't forget your passports.

 I wonder if these Canadian geese have their passports.

The rain isn't slowing down the activity on the dock.

A good share of that activity is because today is opening day of crab season.

This catch was good......Dungeness and Red Rock.

The Dungeness must be at least 6 & 1/4 inches and male to keep.  The Red Rock only have to be 5 inches and either sex is ok.

Fishing is good in the rain.

 

As we drove out of town we went by the Courthouse all decked out for the 4th of July.

The next morning we took the trail by the RV Park.

The trail is narrow and in some places almost overtaken by the growth of the plants.

As we get further along it becomes more forest like with mushrooms popping up along the path.

The trail leads to the Elwha Dam Removal site overlook.

The Elwha Dam was a 108-ft high dam on the Elwha River approximately 4.9 miles upstream from the mouth of the river on the Strait of Juan de Fuca.  It was completed in 1913.

Not far away the Glines Canyon Dam was completed in 1926.

The dams fueled regional growth, but blocked the migration of salmon upstream, disrupted the flow of sediment and wood downstream, and flooded the historic homelands and cultural sites of the Lower Elwha Klallam Tribe.

In 1992, Congress passed the Elwha River Ecosystem and Fisheries Restoration Act, authorizing dam removal to restore the altered ecosystem.  Removal started on September 27, 2011 and was completed August 26, 2014.

It was the largest dam removal in U.S. history.

The Elwha River was finally allowed to flow unimpeded from the Olympic Mountains to the Sea, ending over 100 years of restraint on a watershed formerly known for its phenomenal salmon runs.  

Now it is said that Steelhead, Chinook, and Coho all spawn well above the old dam sites. Over 70 acres of new beach have been formed at the mouth of the Elwha, built up by the release of 4.6 million cubic yards of sediment that had collected behind the former reservoirs. Dungeness crab and other shellfish are rebounding along the shoreline. Overall, fish populations are the highest they've been in 30 years. Wildlife is migrating and adjusting to the new sources of food.  Sounds like a success.

There is an abundance of berry bushes.  I am hoping for some sunny days to hasten their ripening so we can enjoy some juicy berries before we leave the area.

A nice morning hike.  Now on to an afternoon one.

We drove down Olympic Hot Springs Road that is right at the Elwha River level.

Unleashing the wild Elwha River has not been without its problems.  In November 2015, winter floods on the river took out portions of the Olympic Hot Springs Road as well as Elwha Campground and Altair Campground. The National Park Service tasked with providing recreational access to these parts of the park has decided not to restore these camping areas for now. More floods are likely, and park managers are taking a wait-and-see approach.   Almost three years seems like a pretty long wait and see time. 

The road closure stopped us here.  Signs say that the road is washed out and a large portion of the river is flowing over the roadway.

That's OK.  The trail to Madison Falls is right here.

 
The trail bends around the trees on its way to the falls.

The trees are laden with soft springy moss. 

The trail to the falls is quite short and because of its easy access it is one of the most photographed falls in the Olympic Peninsula.

The falls here are about 50 feet high but it is said that there is another falls above that is not visible and totally inaccessible.

Pretty impressive falls I think.

Another especially amazing day in this wonderful part of the USA.

Savoring the USA

One day at a time!

A Lighthouse, A River And A Beach

 A short drive took us to Dungeness Spit. It is a 6.8-mile long sand spit jutting out from the northern edge of the Olympic Peninsula into the Strait of Juan de Fuca.

It is the longest natural sand spit in the United States.  The body of water it encloses is called Dungeness Bay.

The spit is home to the New Dungeness Lighthouse.  It was first lit in 1857 but the original fresnel lens has been removed and in 1976 an automatic light was installed.   The viewing area we came to this day was quite remote from the Lighthouse so depending upon time we may go in the other direction to see if we can get closer.

The area is a National Wildlife Refuge and is a sanctuary for over 250 species of birds, 41 species of land mammals and eight species of water mammals per their information board.  We must have been there at the wrong time because we only saw a few sea birds. 

Frequently for a good part of the day it is overcast with clouds hugging the mountains and sometimes misty drops settle on us.  It is usually in the 60's so the exploring doesn't slow down.

Very near our RV Park is the Elwha River.  The original bridge that crossed the river here was built around 1913.  When it became unsafe it was demolished in 2007 and replaced with this beauty.  The cars drive across on the top and the walkers or bikers can safely cross below.

It is part of the Olympic Adventure Route.  It is 25 miles of trails through all this beauty.

The river is home to salmon and trout.

Leaving the river we were heading to a beach but we thought it was time to stop for a bite to eat.  No we didn't have a Sasquatch Burger......not sure we are up for that.  On the menu inside it is priced at $89.99.  I wonder if they get orders.

The beach we were going to is located in the Salt Creek Recreation Area.

Salt Creek empties into the Strait of Juan de Fuca here at Crescent Beach.

The cedar trees here are so healthy.  Moist, bright and fragrant.

Just in case we didn't know where we were a message was left for us so we would know our location. 

This picture perfect outcropping is called Tongue Point.

At low tide it is accessible on foot.

This is definitely on my list to return to after consulting the tide table to make sure we are there at low tide.

From what I have read there are tide pools out there that have anemones, crabs, snails, and sea cucumbers in addition to the mussels, barnacles, and sea stars.  

This is a no collection beach meaning you can't take shells, rocks or driftwood.

The seaweed makes such pretty patterns on the beach.  I think it would be a great wallpaper or fabric pattern.

The upper trail is on the return list too.  Looks like a perfect place to do a little contemplation. 

Such a picturesque and quiet Olympic Peninsula beach.  Water on one side, turn around and there are the mountains. It was a perfectly grand day.

Oh look what we saw on our way back to GypsyII.   Ladies if you are interested just go to [email protected].  

 

 

Lake Crescent And Marymere Falls

Continuing our Olympic Peninsula explorations heading up Highway 101 there is construction.  Who cares?  Stopping amid this scenery is not a hardship.

We had two destinations in mind today.  The first is Lake Crescent.

This deep, glacially carved lake makes it an ideal first destination of the day.

At an official maximum depth of 624 feet it is the second deepest lake in Washington.

Lake Crescent is known for its brilliant blue waters and exceptional clarity, caused by a lack of nitrogen in the water which inhibits the growth of algae.

According to legend, the Klallam and Quileute tribes fought a bloody battle beneath Mount Storm King. The mountain became angry, broke off a chunk of rock from his peak, and threw it into the valley over the battlefield. The rock killed the warriors and dammed the river creating Crescent Lake.  

We stopped at Lake Crescent Lodge.  Loved seeing the smoke coming out of the chimney.  It was cool enough to have the fireplace going.

There are rooms in the main building and charming little cottages scattered around the property.

 You can sit on their covered porch in their comfy rocking chairs and enjoy the view.  Built in 1915 Lake Crescent Lodge is one of the first buildings from the modern era in Olympic National Park.

You can rent boats, kayaks, and paddle boards and enjoy being out on the water.

What a perfect place to stay on your Olympic National Park vacation.

I'm not sure if this guy had a reservation but he made quite a splash with the visitors.

He didn't need to rent anything to have some water fun. 

On down the road we found the Marymere Falls Trail. Our second destination of the day.

Fun way to get us under Highway 101 to start the hike.

Right away we are in a fern forest.

The fallen trees are dripping with moss.

The dirt trail goes through old-growth lowland forest consisting of fir, cedar, hemlock, and alder trees.
 

It is like stepping into another world.

Mosses, ferns and lichens festoon tree trunks and branches, giving the forest a "jungle-like" feel.

To me this looks like a mossy umbrella.  Maybe a shelter for the deer or elk.

We are walking under a canopy of green.

So far the hike has been a piece of cake.

Soon we are descending 200 feet into the mossy, fern-laden ravine. 

But once you cross the creek it is pretty much straight uphill.  This is where Walt decided to find a bench and let me go on.

The pretty little creek is strewn with moss covered rocks.

The trail description is that it is an easy to moderate hike. 

I am sure that those descriptions are written by young, fit, athletic forest rangers.  Not for us oldies and out of shapers.

I was determined to get to the falls so I trooped on..........up, around and through.  I wasn't the only one that didn't believe the description.  A 40ish gentleman said over and over "they said the trail was just under a mile in but I swear it is much longer."  A 20 something out of breath young man had to ask his girlfriend to slow down.  The most challenging to my pride was the lady and her two daughters going up the trail as I came down asking me how much further it was.  As they walked off she said "If she can do it I certainly can." 

It was worth it.  

The waters of Falls Creek drop nearly 90 feet from a cliff into a small crystal clear pool at the bottom.

My effort to reach Marymere Falls was justified.  All 7979 steps per my phone. 

Back to the bridge and I found Walt having a good time visiting with the hikers while he waited.

When the massive trees die, they eventually fall, but can take centuries to slowly decay back to the soil. Throughout their long death, they provide important habitat for whole communities, including mosses, tree seedlings, fungi, small mammals, amphibians, and insects. 


I was a happy hiker. Ferns, mosses, huge trees, a lake, a deer, and a waterfall.  What more could I ask for? Great day in the forest.  The Olympic Peninsula continues to exceed my expectations. 



 

Living My Great Expectations On The Olympic Peninsula

Heading north and then west on Highway 101 I had my camera constantly clicking.  Yes, that's me in the rearview mirror clicking away.

If I was worried about the Olympic Peninsula living up to my expectations the trip had just begun and my expectations were confirmed and exceeded.

The colors of the water are indescribable.

It seems there is every shade of green on the roadside and mountains.

Our 100 mile trip flew by with all of the pretty roadside views.  We arrived in Port Angeles at the Elwha Dam RV Park and it will be our base to explore the Olympic Peninsula National Park.

Our first excursion out exploring was to familiarize ourselves with Port Angeles.  Port Angeles is a city of about 20,000 that was originally a fishing and logging village.  When the downturn in those jobs occurred much of their economy now comes from tourism as a point of entry to the Olympic National Peninsula.

The port seems to be busy with the comings and goings of large ships as well as small boats.  The harbor is deep enough to provide anchorage for large ocean-going ships such as tankers and cruise ships. 

There is one mill still in operation and I love the smell of the newly scaled logs as we pass by.

The city is situated on the northern edge of the Olympic Peninsula  along the shore of the Strait of Juan de Fuca.  The Strait of Juan de Fuca separates the US from Canada here.

The landmass in the distance is the city of Victoria, Canada.  

Port Angeles features a long and narrow glacial moraine named Ediz Hook that projects  nearly three miles into the Strait.

Ediz Hook creates a large, natural deep-water harbor shielded from the storms and swells that move down the Strait from the Pacific Ocean. 

We drove along the Hook as far as allowed.  At the tip is the Coast Guard Air Station.

Looking toward shore there are views of the logging operation, homes in Port Angeles and the cloud shrouded mountains. 

We also found the grocery stores, places to get a Diet Coke, and where the movie theatre is.  

We also found a fun burger place.  Double ramp drive thru.  No walk up orders, no inside seating just drive through and get one of their really good burgers. 

 

Speaking of burgers we saw this cheeseburger on a log cabin roadside cafe on our way in on Highway 101.  
 

Sasquatch is big around here.  This woodcarver shop is on our route to and from the RV Park.  This one is a work in progress.

Looks like this one is completed and ready for sale.  I wave at the carvings each time we pass in hopes that if I come across the real thing while we are here he will know I am a friend. 

It appears that there are so many things to see and do here that if we choose an adventure each day we may only touch the surface of this incredible place.   We will give it our best effort.  Stay tuned.