Gypsy & The Navigator

Sedona Is Truly Special

No matter how many times we have visited Sedona the brilliant red sandstone formations are always cause for awe.

The red is contrasted by the green of the pinions, cypress, and juniper.

The scenery makes my heart skip a beat.  But there is a sadness to it too.  Is there some format to put a location on an endangered species list?  I guess it would have to be an endangered location list.  There are just too many people visiting this amazing place.  In 2016 tourism to Sedona had tripled in the last 10 years.  I haven't been able to find new statistics but my guess is that it has tripled again.  Parking spaces and parking lots are full, (unbelievable you have to pay $3 to park your car for a view over the town and the red rocks that circle it up near the airport.....$3 for a quick photo op) hiking trails are crowded, garbage is thrown carelessly away everywhere, not to mention the dog poop, traffic backs up but you have gorgeous views while you wait, and it's expensive are just a few of the reasons leading to my sadness.  When a place gets popular it is both a boon and a downfall.

Sedona has done a good job on the newer construction with its strict building and design codes that have houses seamlessly melding into the hilly landscape and I understand that the city is about built out.  That probably is a good thing because not many more residents can come but that doesn't stop the visitors.

As many times as we have been in Sedona and admired the striking Chapel of the Holy Cross that is built into the red rock buttes I have never been able to go up to it and see the inside.

It is always so full of visitors that the road is clogged and there is nowhere to park.  But this time Walt was able to drive me up and drop me off right at the pathway up and then he went and found a parking place.

The Chapel is also known as the Chapel in the Rock and was inspired and commissioned by local rancher and sculptor Marguerite Brunswig Staude. 

She was inspired to build the church in 1932 when she viewed the newly built Empire State Building in New York City.

She said that when viewed from a certain angle a cross seemed to run through the core of the structure.  She thought that would be a perfect design for a church.

She made a sketch of her vision and shared it with Frank Lloyd Wright and a plan was put in place to build the church in Budapest overlooking the Danube.  Then World War II put a stop to that plan.

Her plan lay dormant for several years but having a ranch in Oak Creek Canyon she knew there were spectacular spots in the area that would be perfect for the Church.

The chosen site was actually on government land and it practically took an act of congress to make her vision a reality.  It was completed in 1956.  It is a work of art that is enjoyed by visitors from all over the world.

The views in and around the Chapel are stunning and even with the crowds it seems a peaceful place.

In 2007, Arizonans voted the Chapel to be one of the Seven Man-Made Wonders of Arizona.

From the Chapel property there is a birds eye view of THE house.  So many rumors about who owns it (from Johnny Depp to Nicholas Cage) but it is owned by the Comescu's from Phoenix.  He is the inventor of the Lasik eye surgery and was originally from Romania.

After our visit to the Chapel there was time for a beautiful drive through Oak Creek Canyon.

There is always time for a stroll through Tlaquepaque to see old friends like Miss Piggy in the flowers.

And my Frog friend always gets a kiss.

This time I met a few new felines.  

Some are wild and some are domesticated.

There is always new art and these are for sale so our friendship might not last long when they head for their new homes.  Miss Piggy and Frog are permanently installed so our friendship should be long lasting. 

Tlaquepaque has a variety of shops, galleries, and restaurants but I just love the architecture.

Couples choose it for their wedding venue.  There is a small chapel. The photos must be gorgeous.

The flowers are everywhere and they never disappoint.  Hang in there Sedona.  There's a lot to love.

 

Arcosanti........The City Of The Future That Time Seems To Forget

Staying at Distant Drums RV Park in Camp Verde and feeling so much better it was time to go see those places on my wish list that were nearby.

I have always loved to read books but years ago I discovered a passion for magazines.  When we had a house with a permanent address I subscribed to so many that it seemed like there was at least one in the mailbox every day.  There was a magazine for every interest.  Gardening, traveling, architecture, anything you could want.  When we started to travel I could still have my books but those magazines were gone.  That is until I discovered that I could get my favorites online without even a subscription.  In the spirit of trying not to sit in front of the computer for hours there are only 2 that I check out regularly.......Sunset and Architectural Digest.  They both have so many places I want to go. 

About a year ago there was an article in Architectural Digest about Arcosanti.  It made it to my wish list. Only about 30 miles down the road.......here we go.

Arcosanti is a dream of a Utopian Metropolis rising out of the desert.  The dreamer was Paolo Soleri, an Italian Architect and artist.  Soleri worked under Frank Lloyd Wright at Taliesin West in Arizona. He returned to Italy for a time and then in 1956 settled permanently in the United States in Scottsdale, Arizona, where he established the Cosanti Foundation. He designed a city both to conserve the natural surroundings and to intensify the human activities of living and working by condensing them spatially. The resulting integrated, total environments Soleri hoped, would provide for all the needs of rational, aesthetic human beings. 

There is an unpaved road to get to Arcosanti but in the city itself there are no roads.

Construction began in 1970 with a goal of housing 5000 but there usually is only a population of around 100.  Construction is only about 5% complete.

Each year, 50,000 people from all over the world visit Arcosanti. University students come to study design and sustainability staying in the many living quarters while attending the workshops. Concerts and festivals are held in its amphitheater. Some visitors even rent guest rooms and stay overnight.

Those attending the workshops assist with the continuing construction.  Some have come and stayed.  Our guide said the longest resident has been there 30 years.  The program attracts many who are interested in art, crafts, architecture and urban planning, but it is also a connection to those interested in philosophy, sociology, science, and agriculture.  Our guide was originally from the Bronx in New York eventually coming to Arizona and Arcosanti after graduating from college with a Business and Communications degree.

Soleri’s concept is called “Arcology.” He stated it was architecture in tune with ecology.  Arcology advocates cities designed to maximize the interaction and accessibility associated with an urban environment; minimize the use of energy, raw materials, and land, that reduces waste and environmental pollution; and allows interaction with the surrounding natural environment.

Most building features are particular to the design and construction of Arcosanti. For example, tilt-up concrete panels are cast in a bed of silt acquired from the surrounding area, giving the concrete a unique texture and color that helps it blend with the landscape. Many panels were cast with embedded art. 

Most buildings are oriented southward to capture the sun's light and heat — roof designs admit the maximum amount of sunlight in the winter and a minimal amount during the summer. The structure that shelters the ceramic workshop is built in the form of an apse, a quarter-sphere or semi-dome. The structures behind the doors were once very small apartments but are now used as storage for the ceramic supplies.  

The city’s most striking feature is maybe the apse of its bronze foundry, where Soleri bells are cast. The apse resembles quarter-sphere hollows of Romanesque cathedrals where the center gives way to side chapels. Soleri’s apse faces south. It fills with shade in summer, light in winter.

The sale of the bells partially funds the continuing building of Arcosanti.

The Paolo Soleri bells are sold primarily at the Cosanti Gallery in Scottsdale, AZ and at Arcosanti.  They also can be purchased online..  Each one is a work of art and the sound is unique and soothing.

This is one of the molds used for each bell with a sand-casting method.   The foundry crew works daily making the bells.  Hot bronze is poured into each of the molds and at this time of the year their work schedule begins very early in the morning in an attempt to beat the heat.

There are large shaded areas  called The Vaults.  They are the midpoint of the Arcosanti site and designed to accommodate large gatherings or where just a few can meet.  The young man in the photo was our guide.

There is a large amphitheater that has hosted such varied events as Shakespeare, jazz, bluegrass and indie folk-rock, experimental dance, a stilt-walking circus, and a 3-day modern music festival.  

The amphitheater is ringed by living quarters and the residents can watch the performances right from their own homes.  Speaking of the residents.  When you come to stay you start out in "shared" housing.  The longer you stay you can move up to your own private apartment.  

Those who live here are expected to work here, either in construction, the greenhouses, landscaping, in composting and recycling, in the on site cafe, in the foundry, in the ceramic studio, or many other jobs that keep the "city" going.  And it is not just manual labor.  They have workshops with up to date technology including a 3D printer that our guide was excited about a project he had just completed.

Soleri valued hard work but that does not mean that the residents don't have their own sense of style. 

This is what is left of one of Soleri's vision for an airport.  Think of it flat, hovering over a body of water the guide said.  All I could think of was "Star Wars."

They have a nice pool to cool off in after a hot day or work or long hours in a workshop.  Arcosanti is perched on an underground aquifer; they harvest rain water from the roofs of their buildings and practice conservation religiously.  I was absolutely baffled that the pond you see below the pool is their black water waste that is being cleaned in the algae pond.  Apparently there is no odor.

 The people living here are not seeing the cracked concrete slabs and fading paint, but something altogether more beautiful. They have caught Soleri's vision.

I appreciate Walt being happy to spend the time letting me explore this interesting place.  I know he is one of those that sees the cracked concrete and the faded paint and can't imagine the lives of those that have chosen to make it home and continue to pursue the dream of a Utopia in the desert.  I can understand and appreciate their commitment and hope they continue to make their dream come alive.  I will be the first to admit I couldn't do it.  Number one.............shared living quarters......uh uh.  But the idea of living, working, playing, learning in a very small footprint with energy conservation makes a lot of sense to me. 

While only a sliver of Soleri's vision has been completed the dedicated carry on towards the future. 

Watson Lake Amid The Granite Dells

 

Our visit to Prescott was spent at The Point Of Rocks RV Park.  GypsyII was surrounded by green trees and the sites were staggered so we never had anyone directly by us.

Across from us were these massive rocks and more trees.  On the days that I was absolutely miserable and having to do nothing but lay flat it was nice to have a good view. 

Being thankful for temporary relief now and then from Sciatica we were able to take in the beauty of Watson Lake. 

Watson Lake is a reservoir that was created in the early 1900's when Chino Valley Irrigation District built a dam on Granite Creek.

The massive boulders that surround the lake are known as the Granite Dells.

The blue lake is circled by hiking trails.

Swimming is prohibited but you can boat (no wake), kayak, canoe, fish, and camp.  No swimming is allowed because the lake is down stream from an old strip mining of mercury.  Makes me wonder if people eat the fish they catch.

Pretty spot to put your boat in or shove off in your kayak.

Can't get enough of these crazy rocks. 

The trees nestled into the crevices of the rocks for lots of pops of green.

The rocks look like an artist sculpted them.  Oh wait.......He did.

This beautiful lake is only about 4 miles out of Prescott and only a couple hours from Phoenix.  It is an oasis  for anyone looking to escape the desert heat in the summer. 

There is a trail that leads from the RV Park to the lake and one day I actually felt good enough to walk a bit among the huge boulders.

Lots of foliage and flowers blooming too.

This was about as far as we got but we were treated to a birds eye view of the lake. 

Such a pretty day with fabulous views.  I read in the local paper that developers want to come in and build homes around the boulders and locals are really fighting that happening.  I'm with the locals.  Let it be. The stunning landscape needs to remain and there is a lot of wildlife that call it home. 

I am so grateful for an afternoon of feeling well enough to spend some time among these massive boulders of ancient, weathered rock.  What a wonderful world we are fortunate to live in.

 Not only do the boulders have an unusual lumpy, rippled appearance it looks like the trees do too.

On our way back to GypsyII.  Walt always leads to the way.  Not sure if it is to protect me from what could be ahead or if he's just anxious to be back to his comfy recliner.

One day we drove through the downtown Prescott area and I was sad that I didn't have a day that I felt well enough to go and walk around.  There is so much history here.  The old Prescott railroad station was built in 1907 and served the city for 100 years.  It has now been remodeled into a marketplace for businesses.

Beautiful homes built in the 1890's are on Union Street known as "Nob Hill" where the wealthy of Prescott built. 

One of Barry Goldwater's relatives was a wealthy merchant in Prescott and built this Victorian style house in 1894.

 Too soon with not enough days of feeling well and it was time to leave Prescott.  Only 50 miles away is our next destination at Distant Drums RV Park in Camp Verde, AZ.   An appointment was made with my Dr. in Gilbert (2 hours away) and a prescription that finally broke the pain down to a manageable level.   Thank heaven for modern medicine.  

"Time and health are two precious assets that we don't recognize and appreciate until they have been depleted."                                                          Denis Waitley

On To That Great Oasis In The Desert........Las Vegas

After a very pleasant stay in St. George it was on to Las Vegas.  The road to Vegas passes through the most rugged looking mountains.

Happy I live in this time of motorized vehicles. I don't think I would have enjoyed travel as much on horseback or in a horse drawn wagon. 

We arrived in Las Vegas, set up at Las Vegas RV Park and set about seeing the sights.

One of the first places I always want to go is the Bellagio Conservatory and Botanical Garden.

No matter how many times I go the display always takes my breath away.

The display changes 5 times a year.  Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter and a special display for Chinese New Year. 

The 2019 Spring Show is Japanese Spring.

The most eye catching to me were the beautiful red-crowned Japanese cranes.  These are designed after the famous Japanese painting, 100 Fountain Views of Edo-Hiroshige Cranes 1857. 

Here's looking at you, kid!

There is a towering replica of the Osaka Castle. The Osaka Castle is one of the most iconic and historic castles in all of Japan. It has been chosen to host the 2025 World Expo.

A horticulture staff of 120 maintains the Botanical Gardens and the entire grounds of Bellagio. 

The garden has 15,000-18,000 visitors every day.  They do a great job of situating the displays to accommodate so many people.

During the course of each seasonal exhibit, more than 10,000 potted flowers are hand-watered and switched out every two weeks.  

The graceful Koi were lazily swimming in the pond.  The most expensive koi fish ever sold was worth $1.8 million.

No matter how many visits to the Conservatory that I have made I am never disappointed.  But, I am a dyed in the wool flower lover. 

The Conservatory is just off the Bellagio Lobby that is home to Dale Chihuly's 2,000 hand-blown glass flowers ceiling and I always have to stop by to admire it.

Below that beautiful ceiling this visit is a vibrantly colored Samurai Warrior.  

On our way out of the Hotel headed to the fountains we saw this wall that looks just like the scales on the Koi in the Conservatory pond.  Weirdly beautiful.

The architecture in Vegas is what I call "escapism."  You can envision yourself anywhere in the world as you travel down the Strip.

Inspired by the Lake Como (think George & Amal) town of Bellagio in Italy, the Bellagio Resort is famed for its elegance. 

Once out at the lake the fountain show was just beginning.

The show is every 30 minutes during the day and every 15 minutes in the evening.

The music varies from classical and operatic pieces to popular music and songs from Broadway.  This time we were treated to classical.

Sometimes the water flies almost 500 feet into the air. No matter how often I see the show I always go "W0w."

If you could ignore the crowds it would be easy to imagine yourself in Italy.

Living the high life in Las Vegas can be exhausting as these two seem to confirm.  

When Ginger and Frosty returned from their Colorado visit it was great to spend time with them.  Interesting desert drives with beautiful shadowy mountains.

A pass by a closed brothel in Pahrump that left their sign standing.  I wonder if American Pickers would be interested in the sign.

This is a dry, deserty part of the world.

And then after this day the bottom dropped out of my world for awhile. Like a bolt out of the blue Sciatica pain hit with the most excruciating pain.  I spent 90% of a month laying flat on my back, not suffering quietly as Walt can attest and nothing I tried gave any comfort.  A trip to Emergency in Las Vegas being fed morphine through an IV gave only relief while I was hooked up to that IV.  The prescriptions for meds only helped by allowing me to sleep a lot.  From Las Vegas we were scheduled in Kingman and Walt had to do his chores and mine to get us hooked up and moved.

I lay with the seat reclined afraid to move for the trip.  My entire experience in Kingman was this photo of the city sign and the one below.  The remainder of our time there I was inside GypsyII on the bed  flat on my back.

A drive by photo of the County Courthouse. Sorry Kingman.......I did not get to know you.

From there it was on to Prescott with Walt again having to do all the work.  I again waved the white flag and had him take me to Emergency.  Again hooked up to a blessed IV that softened the pain.  A little sleep filled with technicolor dreams or maybe I should say nightmares.  The pain was portrayed as a fire breathing monster licking the hip with flames over and over. Not very encouraging to hear the Doctor say that some people suffer with Sciatica for months.  More pain meds but these took the edge off every now and then.

There were days that I could actually go for a drive.  While not entirely comfortable but at least giving me the chance to see this pretty place.  One day I actually was able to walk a short way for a different view of the rocks and lake. But, the pain continued at different levels and at different times.  Stay tuned to see how amazing Watson Lake is and the outcome of my journey with Sciatica.  It has certainly made me admire people that live with chronic pain and deal with it graciously.  They must be so strong. I am first to admit that I am a total lightweight in this regard.  It hurt, it ached, it throbbed, but I knew it would stop.